The Meanings of Flower

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The city garden needs to be an oasis from the world outside, a haven that you can relax in.  Three starting points to get there.

1. Enclose the garden. With luck the city garden already has walls round it – they may look ugly and depressing right now, but that is going to change.  If the garden doesn’t have walls, put up some sort of boundary fencing between it and the neighbours. Panel fencing is relatively cheap and easy to put up. A featherboard fence will last longer and need less maintenance but takes more time and skill to erect. Once you have your boundary wall or fence, turn it green. Do this either by growing clematis, honeysuckles and climbing roses up it, which will be lovely in the summer, but less interesting in winter, or by having a line of small This will also prevent any problems with roots going through into neighbouring gardens.

2. Pave the centre of the garden. Lay stone slabs down in sand to make a paved surface.  Otherwise, in a small space you will have a mudbath in winter and a scorched area in summer. Leave a good yard round the outside of the paved area, filled with gravel to allow drainage from the slabs. The better quality slabs you can afford, the better the end result. If you can only afford concrete, have a gravel garden instead and grow herbs which will self-seed into it.

3. Round the outside of the paved area grow a selection of perennial flowers and small bushes in front of the trees or climbers. Grow your plants in containers, not plastic if you can avoid it. Unglazed clay pots are lovely but will crack in freezing conditions, so go for wooden tubs, stone troughs or glazed pots. The container method allows you to move plants around and change the appearance – important in a small space. If you want a garden that will require very little care, grow rosemary, bay, sage and lavender, all of which grow into good sized bushes and keep their leaves and colour throughout the year without any attention, apart from a little protection for the bay from frost.

Growing herbs can be a frustrating business. It’s a bit like having a pet or a small child, in that they aren’t able to just tell you what they need – it’s on you to figure it out. Luckily, help is at hand! Without further ado, here are some of the best tips for growing herbs.

. Whether you are growing your herbs inside in pots or outside in your garden, soil that stays wet is a big problem for herbs. For pots, put an inch layer of gravel in the bottom of them before adding your soil, and mix the soil with some compost or coarse sand to lighten it. For growing herbs outdoors, dig up the area where you want to plant them to a depth of 15-18 inches, then lay down three-inch layer of crushed rock. Again, use a lightened soil on top. A little limestone is also a good idea to ensure the soil is alkaline.

Herbs don’t grow in high-quality fertilized soil in their native environments (usually the Mediterranean), and there is evidence that fertilized soil leads to herbs with more foliage but less flavor.

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Ensure your herbs get full sun. Most herbs require direct sun during the day, so if you’re growing herbs outdoors ensure that they’re not going to be in the shade of a tree or your house. If you’re growing them indoors, put them on a windowsill facing the direction of the equator, and install a fluorescent ‘grow lamp’ for extra light during the winter.

Too much water can quickly kill a lot of herbs because roots will rot. To avoid this, don’t give herbs (particularly ones you keep indoors) so much water that their roots are left soggy. Try ‘watering’ them with a spray mister instead.

How much flavor the leaves of your herbs have depends in part on when you pick them. For optimum flavor, pick them in the morning, after any dew has evaporated but before they’ve received a lot of direct sun. Note that you can pick herb leaves as soon as the plants are big enough that you’re not taking more than 1/3 of their foliage at a time, but take the lower and outer leaves first.

Some herbs are annuals, meaning that they bloom for one season and then die. More herbs are perennials though, meaning that they can live through the winter and bloom again each year. Out of the popular culinary herbs, annuals include basil, dill and coriander. Perennials include fennel, chives, marjoram, tarragon, mint and thyme. Keep in mind when planting perennials that they may be around for a long time.

These are just some tips for growing herbs that I hope will be helpful.

If the soil is workable, dig in a 5cm (or more) layer of compost or well rotted manure into your beds to prepare for the growing season ahead. You can also work in a general purpose fertiliser such as pelleted chicken manure or fish, blood and bone.

Now is an ideal time to plant herbaceous perennials. Lift and divide established perennial plants now to improve their vigour and create new plants for your garden.

Sow your flower seeds now so they are ready for planting out in June.

Hardy annuals can be sown directly into the soil. Alternatively sow them in pots or module trays for planting out later in the spring.

Prune early-flowering Clematis once their flowers have finished and summer-flowering Clematis before they start into active growth – find out how using our clematis pruning guide.

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Roses should be fed with a special rose feed as they come into growth.

Prune roses to encourage strong new growth. Remember to wear gardening gloves to protect from thorns.

Prune Winter Flowering Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) after flowering to encourage new growth for next year’s blooms. Cut back the previous years growth to 5cm from the old wood.

If you need to move deciduous trees or shrubs, now is the time to do it provided the soil is not frozen or waterlogged.
Trim winter-flowering heathers as the flowers disappear, to prevent the plants becoming leggy.

Keep an eye out for slugs as the weather warms; they favour soft new growth.

Don’t forget to buy your Seed Potatoes

Continue to deadhead faded flowers from your winter pansies to stop them setting seed. This will encourage flushes of new flowers throughout the spring.

Deadhead daffodils as the flowers finish and let the foliage die back naturally.

If any of your garden plants will need supporting this year, put the supports in now so the plants grow up through them. Adding supports afterwards is difficult and often looks unattractive.

Buying flower bulbs to plant and grow is an exciting experience that begins in the fall and continues through the spring. Dutch flowering bulbs are usually delivered to American ports by the month of September for fall planting. Major Dutch bulbs offerings include Dutch Amaryllis and African Amaryllis; daffodil bulbs and the famous, Tulip bulbs.

Amaryllis flower bulbs grow the showiest blooms and are pre-cooled to force fast flowering in 3 weeks after containerizing. Dutch bulb importers of Amaryllis offer a larger variety of selections and more bulbs to tempt the buyers. The African growers of Amaryllis bulbs appear to be enslaved to the Dutch Amaryllis importers distribution network, however, the African flowers that emerge on the Amaryllis stems are superior in many respects to the Dutch Amaryllis. The African Amaryllis blooms appear to offer clearer colors, more compact flower stalks, leaves that grow as the flowers appear, and more numerous flower stalks and grow from smaller bulbs. The large array of bloom colors from amaryllis includes red, pink, lavender, orange, yellow, white, green, maroon, red stripe, white stripe, pink stripe, and bi-color. Double numbers of petals on Amaryllis flowers are fast growing to be very popular choices to buy, since the petal count is increased to 12, instead of 6 that grow on most Amaryllis bulb flower stems, looking very similar to a huge carnation flower.

Daffodil flower bulbs are important Dutch bulbs for fall planting, because of their reasonable market cost, the ease of planting, and the growing of flower stalks in the Spring in various colors of yellow, white, orange, and the rare pink daffodil. Daffodil bulbs are easy to naturalize to bloom again every year.

Tulip bulbs are a native flowering plant of Turkey, but long ago tulips were hybridized on a large commercial scale by Dutch bulb growers. The cost of Dutch tulips has not always been inexpensive to buy, but tulip buyers today still love the spring flower colors of red, pink, orange, yellow, blue, purple, white, and bi-color. Cities and government organizations anxiously buy tulip bulbs in huge numbers during winter seasons to grow in beautiful landscape displays for the Spring.

Agapanthus bulbs are often called ‘Lily of the Nile’, and Agapanthus grows profusely along the Nile River in Egypt, and the blooms captivated the ancient African plant explorers who dug the bulbs for shipping back to European gardens. Blue and white colors of Agapanthus rhizomes have been hybridized in recent years to intensify colors, and some Agapanthus plants are cold hardy down to zero degrees F., whereas, the older clones of native Agapanthus were considered to be tropical in nature and not very cold hardy, so they were not introduced for planting in more Northern locations until recently, when gardeners from more Northern States experimented with new Agapanthus hybrids and determined their cold hardy tolerance.

The Canna lily rhizome has been long considered to be tropical in nature, with very little cold hardy resistance. The early American botanist and explorer, William Bartram, wrote in his book, Travels, in 1773, the discovery of Canna indica in Alabama near Mobile, “Canna indica is surprising in luxuriance, presenting a glorious show, the stem rises six, seven, and nine feet high, terminating upwards with spikes of scarlet flowers.” Bartram also discovered the native Canna flaccida, growing near Fort Frederica, Georgia, located on the Island of St Simon’s. Canna lily colors are broad, red, white, pink, lavender, orange, yellow, speckled, bi-color and others. Some Canna flower growers plant cannas with variegated leaf forms that are striped with red, green, yellow, white, and pink. Dutch distributors of canna rhizomes still flood retail box store, garden centers with “Victorian-age” canna bulbs of poor quality; varieties that had declined, “run out”, 50 years ago, and they should have been discontinued and not presented to buyers at a garden center nursery.

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Ginger lily rhizomes grow flowers with fragile, delicate blossoms – many looking like miniature orchid flowers. The foliage of Ginger lilies is interestingly variable, growing in colors of green, yellow, maroon, and stripes of yellow or white. Interest in planting ginger lilies has surged in 20 years, because of the realization that many ginger lilies are cold hardy, surviving temperatures as cold as zero degrees F. The foliage and the flowers are pleasantly aromatic.

Daylilies are actually not bulbs but rhizomes, but are sold extensively as daylily bulbs. Thousands of named varieties of Daylily bulbs have been easily hybridized by legions of backyard gardeners and the selection improvement and flower quality is absolutely astonishing. The improvement has resulted in growing double flower daylily, miniature daylily, cold hardy daylilies, and compact clumping or large clumping daylily plants. It is staggering to realize all these many colors – red, white, yellow, orange, purple, pink, and bi-color originated from an original native plant -a seedy, yellow daylily growing wild on the forest edge.

Elephant Ear bulbs are very variable, some growing into bulbs and others into rhizomes. Gardeners have always been fascinated that the Elephant Ear plants grow large in the landscape into huge clumps with that unforgetable tropical appearance. Great interest in Elephant Ear bulbs has resulted in recent years by a nationally tested demonstration that Elephant Ear bulbs are cold hardy enough to survive temperatures of zero degrees. Curious leaf patterns appear on hybrid Elephant Ear plants, and the extensive variegated patterns that appear on the leaves add a stunning, mysterious attraction from their random markings and splashes of yellow, white, and maroon on the surfaces of various leaf sizes, some large enough to hide the body of a mature man or small enough leaf to place in the palm of the hand. Elephant Ear bulbs can grow as large as the human head or the size of a quarter. Offset bulbs are abundant from Elephant Ear bulbs in the fall as the plants grow dormant to regrow when replanted in the spring. In the wholesale trade of Elephant Ear bulbs, it is a common practice to divide them into two major commercial categories, the Alocasia, and the Colocasia, based on many taxonomical growth characteristics.

Crinum Lily bulbs offer to an adventurous hobbiest or gardener an antique garden bulb selection that has been reintroduced as improved crinum clones by the brilliant inductiveness of chemist, Lester Hannibal of Fair Oaks, California. Lester Hannibal back crossed and intercrossed many native crinum lily species to offer the gardener an excellent, cold hardy crinum, an “interspecific hybrid”, that can be grown as far North as Philadelphia, PA, zone 6, and to survive intense freezes of below zero temperatures. Many of Lester Hannibal’s crinum flower hybrids were a re-creation of obsolete but popular commercial crosses that were made by Cecil Houdyshel in the 1930′s, but largely improved upon from the original “Powellii” forms with clear, white and pink colors, an increase in the number of flowers in the umbel, extended flowering periods, an eliminatio of drooping flowers, an intensification of fragrance and early flowering after sprouting from the germination of the seed. The “milk and wine” crinum lilies were named, because the flowers were white (milk) and wine striped colors. Crinum colors are burgundy, red, pink, white, greenish-yellow, and orange. Crinum bulbs increase by growing into clumps of multiple offsets from the central mother bulb, or by planting the seed of some cultivars or species.

-Rare, Hard-To-Find Flower Bulbs of Merit-
Many rare minor flower bulbs are unavailable to buy anywhere, except by possibly exchanging plants with collectors and hobbiest. The Amazon lily, Encharist grandiflora, blooms with six white, daffodil like petals, and a green or glowing yellow cup radiating from the center. This delicate flower can be remembered from days past for its wonderful charming fragrance. The Bird of Paradise is known for the two tropical forms, the Strelizia reginae, the most common: brilliantly colored flowers with orange, red, and blue glaring blossoms; and the Strelizia nicholae that grows large, showy, white flowers. The Blood Lily, Scadoxus mutliflorus, forms baby-head sized globular flowers with red filamented petals and radiate fragile threads of red that are affixed to the to the center of the bloom, great for container culture. The Red Butterfly lily, Odontonema strictum, won the perennial plant award of the year in Florida in the year 2000, and butterflies and hummingbirds flock to visit the fiery red spikes, beginning in mid-August and continuing until the first hard freeze. The Calla lily, Calla palustrus, has been hybridized with many other Calla lily species to grow into many splendid colors, but the new hybrids are not as popular as the white, fragrant, winter-blooming, Calla aethiopica; and the yellow calla, Calla aethiopica. Clivia lilies, Clivia minata, are choice heavy shade-requiring plants that produce gigantic clusters of orange flowers, cup shaped, with a yellow throat, and often will re-bloom two or three times from large bulbs. The Gloriosa lilies, Gloriosa rothschildiana, a climbing vine that clothes itself with recurved, star-like flowers that are favored and admired by florists and flower arrangers, because the blooms last so well. The Inca Lily, Alstomeria aurantiaca, has become naturalized in America, as an escaped bulb from the tropical jungles of Peru. The Alstromeria flowers last well as a cut-flower, and waxy, greenish-red funnels begin blooming vigorously in the spring. Lycoris are a charming group of flower bulbs that called “Spider Lily”, and they bloom in floral colors of pink, yellow, white, and red, Lycoris radiata, which is the most widely grown. The Pineapple Lily, Eucomis bicolor, grows into flowers that are shaped like miniature pineapple fruits in colors of white and rusty-red. Scilla flower bulbs are grown in large numbers as bedding plants, many Dutch varieties are small and make good cut flowers, but the best cold hardy Scilla is the Scilla peruviana that forms and grows into glowing, purplish-blue flowers that either grow as well as bedding plants, or containerized plants. Voodoo lilies, Amorphophallus bulbifer, are strange and bazaar leafy bulbous plants, both in leaf and flower, with a suggestive look of snakes, cobras, and other vermin that may be lurking beneath the leopard-spotted menacing leaves. Zephyranthes are called “rain lilies”, and softly bloom in colors of pink, Zephyranthes grandiflora; yellow, Zephyranthes citrina; white, Zephyranthes atamasco; and a mind-numbing number of Zephyranthes bulb mongrels that are distributed by a retired breeder in San Antonia, Texas, who apparently has nothing better to do, than paralyze all the worlds earnest taxonomists into the task of assembling the records of his Mexican-American bulb-children lineage into a staggering Encyclopedia publication.

Preparing for the Winter Months: Gardening in October

When you feel that first solid bite in the breeze and you see the songbirds winging their way south, and the trees are bursting with fire-laden hues, you know you can’t be spending the weekend curled up by the fireplace with a good book. Not for long.

While the weather is still gardener-friendly, you must shorten your “to-do” lists for the coming of late fall and early winter. Now is the time to attack your lawn and garden by planting your spring bulbs, buying and maintaining your trees and shrubs, doing your late autumn lawn care, using common-sense watering strategies, building a compost bin and making your own compost, controlling the many common garden pests, and winning at the weed-whacking war before the sudden onset of the fickle, cold and all-enveloping winter season.

Planting Your Perennials

Plant the spring-flowering bulbs until the ground becomes frozen, and prepare your tender but tenacious perennials for the coming seasonal changes. Remember that in the milder climates, bulbs can still be divided and transplanted. Plant hardy bulbs anytime before the soil freezes, but it’s best to plant them early enough so the root systems can grow before winter arrives. In some climates, you can plant until Thanksgiving or even Christmas. Late-planted bulbs develop roots in the spring, and may bloom late. But they’ll arrive on time by next year.

Be sure to position the bulbs at their proper depth. They must be planted so their bottoms rest at a depth two-and-a-half times each bulb’s diameter. In well-drained or sandy soil, plant an inch or two deeper to increase life and discourage rodents.

Bulbs look best planted in groups. So use a garden spade instead of a bulb planter, which encourages you to plant singly. Set the bulbs side-by-side and plant groups of them in holes the size of a dinner plate, or dig curving trenches and position the bulbs in the bottom. Water your bulbs after planting to stimulate the roots to grow.

Interplanting creates maximum flowering in a tight space and eliminates bare spots when “dead” bulbs don’t grow. For a succession of blooms and foliage, plant perennials around the bulb holes. As the bulb foliage dwindles, the perennials will grow, camouflaging the bulbs’ yellowing leaves.

Choosing Your Trees and Shrubs

October is a wonderful time to shop for trees and shrubs at the nursery. They’re now showing their best and brightest colors there. You can plant them now and over the next few months, so that strong, healthy roots will grow over the winter.

You must carefully plan out your landscape to choose which trees you wish to plant for providing proper lawn coverage and the most beautiful scenery. When an appropriate tree is purchased, selected and planted in the right place, it frames your home and beautifies your land, making both more enjoyable. Trees can greatly increase the resale value of property, and even save you on energy costs.

Visualize your new trees at maturity while realizing that some trees develop as much width as height if given enough space to develop. Picture each tree’s size and shape in relation to the overall landscape and the size and style of your home. Trees peaking at forty feet do best near or behind a one-story home. Taller trees blend with two-story houses and large lots. Trees under thirty feet tall suit streetside locations, small lots and enclosed areas such as decks and patios.

There are two basic types of trees you will be considering for purchase. Deciduous trees include large shade trees which frame areas with a cool summer canopy and a colorful autumn rack of superior colors. In winter, their silhouettes provide passage for sunlight. These trees can shade a southern exposure from summertime heat, and allow winter sunlight to warm the house. Evergreen trees have dense green foliage that suits them for planting as privacy screens, windbreaks or backdrops for flowering trees and shrubs. But they are handsome enough to stand alone. They do not lose their leaves, called needles, and provide year-round shelter and color. You should be sure to include a wide variety of both kinds of trees in your landscape to avoid losing them to diseases or pests. Buy disease- and pest-resistant trees.

When buying a tree, look for healthy green leaves if it has any, and also well-developed top growth. Branches should be unbroken and balanced around the trunk, and on dormant or bare-root stock they should be pliable. Examine the roots, which should form a balanced, fully-formed mass. Reject trees with broken or dried-out roots. Avoid trees showing signs of disease, pests or stress such as wilting, discoloration, misshapen leaves, scarred bark and nonvigorous growth. Consider the size of the tree. Young trees have a better rate of success when planted, and most flowering trees grow quickly, so start with less expensive, smaller specimens. And be sure and buy all your plants from a good quality nursery with a decent reputation.

Don’t prune a newly planted tree unless its form needs improving. Prune flowering trees in spring, after blooming, to correct unsightly problems. Crab apple trees are an exception and should be pruned in late winter. But you can remove diseased or dead branches anytime of the year, and much of this is done during the winter. Apply fertilizer when needed in the second and subsequent growing seasons. Mulch to conserve moisture, reduce weeds and eliminate mowing near the tree. Spread wood chips or bark four inches deep and as wide as the tree’s canopy around the base. But don’t mulch poorly drained oversaturated soil. Wrap tree trunks after planting to prevent winter damage from weather and pests. And stake young trees, especially bare-root trees and evergreens, to fortify them against strong winds. Stake loosely and allow the tree to bend slightly, and remove stakes after one year.

Shrubs are often planted and used merely as foundation plants or privacy screens. But shrubbery foliage is vastly more versatile, and can go a long way toward livening up your landscaping. Countless varieties of gorgeously hued and beautifully leafed shrubs are available through nurseries and garden catalogs.

You must start by learning what varieties thrive in your area. Try visiting your local arboretum, where you may view different kinds of shrubs and decide whether they fit your gardening plans. Decide what overall look you want at different times of the year, and then find out which shrubs will be flowering, producing berries or sporting colorful foliage at those times. Compare what you find to the inventory at your local nursery, and ask the professionals who work there lots of questions.

Understand the characteristics of each shrub before you plant it. Flowering and fruit-bearing shrubs enhance a new home, but improper pruning and care will ruin the beauty of all your hard work. Some shrubs bloom on second- or third-year wood. If you’re maintaining a shrub because you’re hoping it’s going to blossom, but you’re cutting off first-year wood every year, it’s never going to bloom.

Some varieties are a foot tall at maturity, while others reach over fifteen feet. A large shrub will usually require more pruning. Also determine the plant’s ability to tolerate various soil conditions, wind, sun and shade. You don’t put a plant that’s sensitive to the elements in an open area. Use hardier plants to shelter it.

Not all shrubs work in every climate. Witch hazel, for example, blooms in fall or winter and is hardiest where minimum temperatures range from thirty degrees below zero to twenty degrees above. It would not be a good choice for very dry, hot climates. But some shrubs such as buddleia, hydrangea and spirea perform well across a wide range of growing zones.

Most shrubs are relatively fast-growing. Those that follow the shape and scale of a home will do more to make a home site look established. For example, if
you have a long, ranch-style house the shrubs should be rectangular. If you have a two-story home, you’re going to want some leafy shrubs that are a little more upright.

You could try buying larger shrubs instead of trees because they don’t cost that much more than smaller shrubs and they help a landscape look fuller. Larger shrubs will go through some shock recovery, but typically it doesn’t take a shrub as long as a tree to bounce back. Position shrubs as if they are full-size, leaving ample room for them to fill out. Viburnum, barberry, honeysuckle and hydrangea are all good choices to surround almost any house.

Late Autumn Lawn Care

Aerate lawns in mid- to late-October, while the grass can recover easily. If you core aerate, make your cores three inches deep, spaced about every six inches. Break up the cores and spread them around. If your lawn needs it, thatch and follow with a fall or winter fertilizer. Even if thatching isn’t needed, your lawn will be happy for a dusting of fertilizer to help roots gain strength before the spring growing season. Overseed bald patches or whole lawns as needed.
Rake and compost leaves as they fall, as well as grass clippings from mowing. If left on the ground now, they’ll make a wet, slippery mess that’s inviting to pests.

Good gardeners use heavy-duty molded plastic for shaping neat edges of beds. You can buy these from garden centers, nurseries and mail order suppliers in rolls of flat, four- to six-inch-tall plastic, and the edging installs easily. You’ll save yourself countless hours of removing grass and weeds that otherwise creep into your beds.

Watering Your Lawn and Garden

You can’t forget about watering in the middle of fall. The summer’s long over, but proper moisture now is key to your plants’ survival over the cold winter months. You’re likely to hear two pieces of advice on watering. One is that you should give established plants an inch of water per week, whether from rain or irrigation. The other is that personal observation of your own garden is the only way to judge how much water it needs. One fact about which there is more agreement: the ideal is to maintain constant moisture, not a cycle of wet soil followed by dry soil.

Although overwatering can be as big a problem as underwatering, most gardeners err on the side of too little. Your needs will vary through the year depending on the rate of evapotranspiration in your garden. Evapotranspiration refers to the two ways that plants lose water. There’s evaporation, the loss of water to the air from soil, water and other surfaces. Then the other way is called transpiration, or water lost primarily from the leaves and stems of the plants. You can often obtain evapotranspiration rates for local areas from water departments and other agencies. You will see a graphic description of how a plant’s natural need for water changes during the growing season.

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In the meantime, keep these pointers in mind:

1) Water when it’s needed, not according to the calendar. Check the top six inches of the soil. If it’s dry and falls apart easily, water. Your plants will also show signs that they need water. Wilting, curling or brown leaves mean that your plants may lack adequate water. Meanwhile, bear in mind that excess water creates a lack of oxygen in plants, making them show similar symptoms to underwatering.

2) Water slowly, not more than one-half inch of water per hour. Too much water can be lost to runoff. This is why handheld watering cans or handheld hoses generally work only for watering small areas.

3) Water deeply. With established vegetables and flowers, six inches is a minimum. With trees and shrubs, water one to two feet or more. Shallow watering does more harm than good; it discourages plants from developing the deep roots they need to find their own water. Except when you are watering seedlings, soil should never be wet only in the top layer.

4) Water in the morning, never during the hottest part of the day. Too much water may be lost to evaporation. Watering in the evening sometimes causes problems in humid climates, particularly with overhead watering, which wets all the foliage. Plants that remain wet at night sometimes come down with disease and fungal growth.

5) Don’t allow runoff. On heavy clay soil, one inch of water will probably cause runoff. At the first sign that water is not penetrating the soil, turn it off. Irrigate in an hour or so, after the initial water has penetrated.

The increased use of piped municipal water and the invention of sprinklers have made mechanical irrigation the most commonly used watering method, particularly for lawns and large areas. Sprinkler irrigation works best with well-draining soils and shallow-rooted plants, or where a cooling effect is desired. But sprinklers have several disadvantages. They waste water, since much of it is sprayed on areas other than the root zone around the plant. Because much of the water is thrown high in the air, loss due to evaporation can be significant. Sprinklers can also foster fungal diseases and other problems with some plants such as roses that don’t like having wet foliage. Sprinklers require good water pressure and are best used on plants which are not in bloom. Several types of sprinklers are available.

Drip or trickle irrigation using low-flow hoses or emitters can save more than half the water that overhead sprinklers lose due to evaporation or runoff. It also reduces disease, because the foliage is never wetted. This type of irrigation never saturates the soil, so there is little bad effect on overall soil structure. Since the area that’s watered is smaller, weed growth is reduced as well. And drip systems don’t require trenching. You can design a simple drip system to direct low flows of water to individual plants, either by laying polyethylene tubing on the ground or burying it shallowly. Or you can buy a more sophisticated custom-designed system. But drip systems have their limitations. They don’t work for lawns or broad areas, and they can be damaged if children or pets dig them up. The required number of emitters, misters and sprayers can add up costwise. A drip system also may require a water-pressure reducer to keep low-volume fittings functioning properly.

Soaker hoses are similar to drip systems in some ways, but are even simpler. Soaker hoses “leak” water along the length of the hose. You can buy flat plastic hoses or soakers made from recycled rubber tires, known as sweaty hoses or leaky pipe soakers. And garden stores are filled with many other kinds of gadgets and tools to help you water your garden, such as rain gauges, mechanical and electronic timers, and watering cans.

For small areas, container plantings and seedlings, watering cans work well. Make sure your can has an attachment so that water can be delivered like a fine rain. When picking a can, keep in mind that they are quite heavy when filled. A two-gallon container full of water is as heavy as most people can carry. Make sure that the handle and the rest of the can are designed for ease of carrying.

Building a Bin and Making Your Own Compost

A bin will contain your compost pile and make it more attractive as well as keep it from spilling or blowing over into your yard. A circular or square structure can be made from fencing wire. The idea is to push the compost material together to make it heat up and rot properly. The bin should be at least three feet wide and three feet deep to provide enough space for the spreading material. Use untreated wood or metal fence posts for the corners and wrap sturdy wire fencing around them. The fence mesh should be small enough that rotting materials won’t fall out. When the compost is ready, unwind the wire and scoop from the bottom of the pile. Then re-pile the undecomposed material and wrap the wire back around the heap.

Many hard-core gardeners feel that three compost bins are the best for serious composting. By building a trio of bins you can compost in stages: one bin will be ready, one will be brewing and one will always be starting. Installing a cover, such as a plastic tarp or a piece of wood, helps to cut odor, control moisture and keep out wild pests. You will also want to use the right ingredients for a proper, lovely smelling rotting compost heap.

It’s easy to cook up your own pile. At first, layer grass clippings with a dash of leaves and twigs to create a concoction that turns into humus, the best plant food. Added ingredients for the compost comes from everyday waste in the kitchen and yard. But avoid any items that ruin your compost. Use green materials such as fruit and vegetable scraps, eggshells, coffee grounds, and grass and plant clippings; and brown materials, such as leaves, wood and bark chips, shredded newspaper, straw and sawdust from untreated wood. Avoid using any meat, oil, fat, grease, diseased plants, sawdust or chips from pressure-treated wood, dog or cat feces, weeds that go to seed or dairy products. These can befoul, spoil and make smelly and rancid a perfectly good productive compost heap.

There are two types of composting: cold and hot. Cold composting is as simple as piling up your yard waste or taking out the organic materials in your trash such as fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds or egg shells and then piling them in your yard. Over the course of a year or so, the material will decompose. Hot composting is for the more serious gardener; you’ll get compost in one to three months during warm weather. Four ingredients are required for fast-cooking hot compost: nitrogen, carbon, air and water. These items feed microorganisms, which speed up the process of decay.

To create your own organic hot-compost heap, wait until you have enough material to make a pile that’s three feet deep. To ensure an even composition, first create alternating four-inch layers of green and brown materials. Green materials such as vegetable scraps, grass clippings and plant trimmings create nitrogen. Brown materials such as leaves, shredded newspaper and twigs create carbon. Sprinkle water over the pile regularly so it has the consistency of a damp sponge. Don’t add too much, or the microorganisms will become waterlogged and won’t heat the pile.

During the growing season, you should provide the pile with oxygen by turning it once a week with a pitchfork. The best time is when the center of the pile feels very warm. Stirring up the pile helps it cook faster and prevents material from becoming matted down and developing a bad odor. At this point, the layers have served their purpose of creating equal amounts of green and brown materials throughout the pile. Stir it thoroughly, turning it over repeatedly. When the compost no longer gives off heat and becomes dry, brown and crumbly, it’s fully cooked and ready to feed to your garden.

Concentrated Pest Control

Slugs and other pests d
on’t disappear as the weather gets cooler. You’ll find them at all life stages in October, from eggs to youngsters and adults. For slugs, use whatever measures you prefer, salt, slug bait or saucers of beer to eliminate them. It’s best to catch them at the early stages to stop the reproduction cycle. And keep the ground well-raked and tidied to reduce their natural habitat.

Here’s a list of common garden pests and how to control them:

Thrips: Adult thrips are about one-sixteenth-inch long and have dark bodies with four fringed wings. Their size makes them difficult to detect in the garden. They attack young leaves, flower stalks and buds. Spray young foliage, developing buds and the soil around the bush with an insecticide containing acephate.

Cane borer: This insect is the maggot of the eggs laid by sawflies or carpenter bees in the freshly-cut cane of the rose after pruning. One telltale sign is a neatly-punctured hole visible on the top of the cane. To remove the pest, cut several inches down the cane until there are no more signs of the maggot or pith-eaten core. Seal all pruning cuts with pruning sealer.

Japanese beetle, Fuller rose beetle: These will eat parts of the foliage and sometimes the flowers. Pick beetles off the bush by hand. Or spray foliage and flowers with an insecticide containing acepate or malathion.

Leaf miner: This insect can be spotted on foliage by the appearance of irregular white chain-like blisters containing its grub. Remove foliage and discard it to prevent further infestation.

Spittle bug: This small, greenish-yellow insect hides inside a circular mass of white foam on the surface of new stems, usually during the development of the first bloom cycle in early spring. Spray a jet of water to remove the foam and the insect.

Roseslug: When you see new foliage with a skeletonized pattern, indicating that it has been eaten, chances are it’s the roseslug. Remove the infected foliage and spray with insecticidal soap or an insecticide that contains acephate.

Leaf cutter bee: As its name implies, this very small yellowish-green insect jumps on the undersides of foliage to feast, often leaving its white skin behind. The damage caused by this insect often results in defoliation. Use an insecticide containing acephate or malathion to prevent it from establishing a strong colony.

Rose scale: This insect hides under gray scales, normally on old canes or stems. It feeds by sucking the sap, weakening the plant. If the infestation is localized, try removing it with a fingernail. Or spray with an insecticide containing acephate.

Spider mite: It builds huge colonies underneath leaves, giving the appearance of salt-and-pepper particles. If the problem is detected early, you can control it chemically with insecticides containing acephate or malathion. Spray the underside of the leaves. Or you can apply a fine misting of water to the foliage’s undersides to wash the mites to the ground. They can’t fly, so they will die on the soil surface.

Rose aphid: This is the commonest insect enemy in the rose garden, and is often referred to as the greenfly. It’s a small, green soft-bodied insect often found in large colonies, particularly on the first lush spring growth, sucking sap from stems. Control by washing off the rose stems with water or spraying with an insecticide containing acephate or malathion.

Plant bugs: This is a large group of insects that includes the lygus bug and stink bug. Plant bugs attack the developing bud by sucking the sap. While feeding, they inject a toxic substance that breaks down plant tissue, causing the distortion and premature death of the bud. Apply a systemic insecticide such as RosePride Systemic to prevent further attacks.

Weed Whacking Made Easy

Actually, this is a slight exaggeration. There’s no rest for the wicked. Keep staying ahead of your nasty weeds all this and next month. They serve as Home Sweet Home for all manner of pests and bugs, and destroying them before they flower and seed will save you much work in the future.

Preparation is the key. All gardeners know what it’s like to have their yards invaded by unwelcome plants. Although there’s no really easy way to banish weeds, there are a few solid techniques you can use to reclaim your turf. At the very least, you can limit this utmost in hostile takeovers.

Here is a simple outline of effective battle strategies you can use in the fall:

1) Be a mulching maniac. Mulch acts as a suffocating blanket by preventing light from reaching weed seeds. At the same time, it holds moisture for your plants and provides nutrients for your soil as it decomposes. Apply coarse mulch, such as bark or wood chips, directly onto soil. Leaves, grass clippings, or straw work better as a weed deterrent with a separating layer of newspaper, cardboard or fabric between them and the soil.

2) Water those weeds. Pulling weeds is easier and more efficient when the soil is moist. You are more likely to get the whole root system, and your yanking won’t disturb surrounding plants as much either. No rain? Turn on the sprinkler or even water individual weeds, leave for a few hours and then get your hands dirty. Just ignore the strange looks from your neighbors as you lovingly water your weeds.

3) Cut weeds down in their prime. Weeds love open soil. But if you till or cultivate and then wait to plant, you can outmaneuver the weeds. Till the ground at least twice before you plant. Your first digging will bring dormant weed seeds to the surface where they can germinate. Watch and wait for a few weeks until they begin to grow. Then slice up the weeds again with a tiller or a hoe, only don’t dig as deep. Now it should be safe to put precious plants into the soil.

4) Pass the salt. Try sweeping rock salt into crevices between paths. Although more harsh, borax also works well. Be sure to wear rubber gloves with the latter material. You might need to apply a few doses, but be aware of any surrounding plants because both products kill the good plants along with the bad.

5) Lay down the law. Try using landscape fabric as a weed controller. Landscape fabric is usually made of a nonwoven, porous polypropylene material which enables air, water and nutrients to reach the soil but keeps weed seeds in a dark, cool environment where they can’t germinate. You lay down the fabric, cut a hole where your plants are positioned or will be planted and then cover the fabric with a two- to four-inch layer of mulch or gravel. However, landscape fabric doesn’t work well on steep slopes or a windy site, where the mulch often slides off or is blown away, exposing the fabric. Never use plastic, as it prevents moisture and air from reaching your plants’ roots.

6) Boil them alive. If you have pesky weeds in a spot with no nearby grass or valuable plants, boil water and pour it over the unsuspecting weeds. To control the stream of boiling water and to save surrounding plants and your toes from a scalding, use a teakettle.

7) To compost or not to compost. After you’ve labored to rid your garden of weeds, be careful that you don’t throw them onto the compost heap where they can drop seed and infect your entire yard. When you pull or till young weeds, leave them where you chop them and let the sun dry them out, and then use them as mulch. Throw mature weeds on a hot compost pile where they should cook at two hundred degrees or higher for several weeks to ensure the seeds are killed.

Cover your ground. Cultivate plants close together or grow winter ground cover in areas that typically suffer from weed invasions. A thick mass of plants not only is attractive but also shelters the soil from direct sunlight, making it more difficult for weed seeds to prosper.

9) Old-fashioned elbow grease. Weed every couple of weeks throughout the growing season in order to stay in control of the weed situation. If you’re going to get down and dir
ty, use a comfortable knee cushion or try pads to lessen the impact of weeding on your body. You can also try an upright tool such as the Weed Hound, which prevents excessive bending or body strain.

10) Solar-powered soil. Solarization uses heat to disinfect your soil. If you have a large planting bed or area of lawn that you want to reseed, till the area to clear all vegetation. Then water the area until it is saturated. Wait one whole day, and then cover with clear three- to six-mil plastic sheeting. Bury the edges of the sheeting to seal it. Let the soil cook for four to six weeks, then remove the plastic. If any weeds appear, till them lightly without disturbing the soil. Wait a few days for the soil to cool and then start planting. This method gets rid of many soil-borne diseases as well.

11) Kiss my grits. You can try a natural weed control such as WOW! (WithOut Weeds) which is made from a byproduct of corn. It acts as a preemergent, and is best applied during the spring, killing weeds before they germinate. A second application at the end of the growing season kills weeds that sprout late in summer and go to seed in the fall. Its nontoxic formula is safe, and it releases nitrogen into your soil.

12) Identify your weeds. If you can ID the sprouting menaces in your yard, you can control their reseeding habits better. Annual weeds complete their growing cycle from seeds to plants in a few months and then die. Unfortunately, they can leave behind thousands of babies if they go to seed, so always try to remove annuals before they drop seeds. Perennial weeds usually live for at least three years and are more difficult to banish, so at first sighting remove them immediately.

13) Time is tight. If your weeds are starting to grow but you don’t have the time or energy to pull them up at the moment, suffocate the weeds by covering them with a block of wood or piece of plastic. Better yet, use a few large decorative stones, a big-based work of art or a birdbath. At least you’ll stop the weeds from spreading so you can tackle them when you have time.

14) Off with their heads. To stop weeds from spreading, pluck off their flower heads before they drop seed. This technique can be especially helpful with annual weeds, which love to provide generation after generation of seeds.

Food for Thought

In addition to performing these autumnal lawn and garden duties, you may want to harvest your fall vegetables such as the perennial squashes. Do a taste test and harvest them when flavor is at its peak. If you’d like to extend the harvest of carrots, turnips and other root vegetables, leave some in the ground to mulch as the weather gets colder. Early next month, before temperatures drop too much, seed cover crops such as clover, peas or vetch to enrich the soil. It will serve as a natural fertilizer, stifle weed growth and help loosen up the soil for next year’s crops.

As for your houseplants that you’ve put outside for the summer, if September was mild enough that your geraniums and other such plants are still outdoors, be sure to make them cozy inside before the first frost takes a bite out of them. Take geranium cuttings of two to four inches to root indoors. If you treat houseplants chemically, be sure to keep them warm and away from direct sunlight. Fertilize houseplants now and they won’t need it again until March. And remember to get your poinsettias and your Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti ready for well-timed holiday color. Give them a daily dose of ten hours of bright daylight or four hours of direct sun and fourteen hours of night darkness. Cacti need a cool environment of fifty to sixty degrees, while poinsettias prefer a warmer sixty-five to seventy degrees. Be sure and let your cacti dry out between waterings.

For a true gardenaholic, winter is often considered to be the enemy. But with a few steps toward preparation in the early- to mid-fall, you can take care of your lawn, garden and houseplants in a way that will keep them thriving and surviving until the dawning of yet another most welcome and bountiful springtime.

This small genus belongs to the dogbane family and consists of only 2 species of long-flowering evergreen shrubs native to the area from southwestern Asia across to China. The leaves are simple, smooth-edged, narrow, and lance-shaped, providing a background for the attractive flowers that range in color from white and pale pink to red. The numerous cultivars further broaden the color spectrum. Appearing in clusters, the flowers are made up of 5 broad petals that are fused into a narrow tube at one end and flare open at the other into a disc or a shallow cup. Nerium plants are very beautiful garden subjects but are also extremely poisonous; care is needed when working with them in the garden.

Plant in almost any type of soil, except wet, in full sun. They will tolerate light frosts if grown in a sheltered position. Well-established plants may be pruned quite severely in winter, about once every 3 years, to maintain their shape. Propagate from half-hardened cuttings taken in autumn or from seed in spring.

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Nerium oleander ‘Petite Salmon’, as its name suggests, bears blooms of a delicate salmon pink shade on an attractive dwarf bush. It is suitable as a hedging plant.

Bearing single pink blooms, Nerium oleander ‘Docteur Golfin’ is a popular landscaping plant in warm climates. Once established, it needs very little watering.

  Nerium oleander comes in a variety of colors and sizes. It is a long-lived plant and is often grown as an informal hedge, in a shrub border, or in a large container.

As the genus name indicates, this is the well-known source of tobacco leaf. There are over 65 species in this genus, the bulk of which are annuals and perennials native to tropical and subtropical America, as well as Australia. Most species are tall and treelike but a few species grow as shrubs, though they tend to be softwooded. And short-lived. Their leaves are usually deep green, very large, and covered with fine hairs. They are sticky to the touch, and may exude a fragrance when crushed. The attractive flowers are tubular or bell-shaped; mostly white or in pastel shades of green, pale yellow, pink, or soft red; and usually open only in the early evening or at night. If the blooms are fragrant, the scent is also often released at night.

Most tobacco species are marginally frost hardy to frost tender. They grow best in warm humid climates with ample summer rainfall in full sun or partial shade. They require soil that is moist, well-drained, and reasonably fertile. Most Nicotiana species are propagated from seed sown in the spring, though some will grow from cuttings.

The leaves of Nicotiana tabacum have long been used to make tobacco products, but this plant also produces pretty little pink flowers.

Nicotiana alata ‘Nicky’ is often grown as an annual and produces clusters of scented crimson flowers. It is a good choice for borders.

 

 

Many gardeners want to get started from the earliest stage of the process. This involves planting flowers and vegetables from seeds. Starting a garden from scratch is possible, as long as you follow all the basics.

 

Flowers and the majority of garden plants are divided into three groups: annual, biennial and perennial. These are started from seeds. The seeds would grow into seedlings, which can be planted in the garden.

 

Preconditions

To get plants started from seeds, you will have to consider several factors. The first thing to plan is the type of soil. You may want to plant the seeds in pots and then to move the seedlings to the garden.

 

Go to a garden store, where you will be advised about the best type of soil for the needs of the specific plant.

 

The water that you use for the plants should contain no chlorine or salts. Fill a container and let it stay overnight before watering the plants.

 

When it comes to light, you will have to be more careful. Some seeds need darkness to germinate. These seeds should be covered by soil. Others need sunlight and have to be placed on the surface of the soil (petunias, for example).

 

The optimum temperature for the germination of the majority of seeds is 15 to 18 degrees Celsius during the night and 21 to 23 degrees Celsius during the day.

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Planting the Seeds

For best results, you will have to plant seeds into pots before moving them in the garden. Fill a pot with soil and get it wet. Press the soil slightly with your hands so that it becomes more compact.

 

Put the seeds on the surface of the soil and use some more soil to cover them. Sprinkle water over the seeds. Place the pot on an even surface and cover the pot with plastic foil, which should not touch the soil.

 

Maintain the soil wet until the seeds germinate. Once the young plants sprout, the amount of moisture can decrease. The surface of the soil should be dry before you water the plants once again.

 

Fertilizing Seedlings

To grow, the plants use the nutrients and energy stored in the seeds. You will have to start fertilizing the plants only after several leaves get formed.

 

Fertilize the plants once a week. Choose a proper water-soluble fertilizer. You can also choose an organic fertilizer, in case you are planting vegetables and you want to keep the plant production ecological.

 

If the seedlings grow to be too tall before you plant them in the garden, you can cut off the top. Always cut the area above a leaf or above the place where a branch has formed.

 

Moving the Seedlings to the Garden

In order to get the plants naturalized, you should start taking the pots outside one or two weeks after the seed germination. Maintain the soil moist.

 

In the first few days, take the plants to a shady part of the garden. After that, you can position the pots in a sunny place. Before you plant the seedlings in the garden, you need to keep them outside at least two times overnight.

 

Plants That Can be Started from Seeds

Which types of plants can be started from seeds?

 

You can give various flowers and vegetables from seed. These are easy to take care of and grow.

 

Try some of the plants which are best for beginners. You can try more difficult tasks once you gain some experience and get acquainted to more complicated planting procedures.

 

Some of the flowers that you can grow from seeds include marigold, convolvulus, dahlia, petunia, nasturtium, cyclamen, primrose, mimosa and aster.

 

Other plants that are easy to start from seeds include hibiscus, mountain ash, juniper, chestnut and sycamore.

Flower gardening is getting a lot more and more popular each day. Fresh snipped plants from Canada Flowers can brighten everyone’s day, they smell good, and are a excellent hobby. Bloom gardening is easy, inexpensive, and loads of enjoyable. Flower gardening can be done for yard decoration, merely as a hobby, or even professionally.

 

You will find some decisions that need to be created before even flower gardening can be started. You must choose if you want annuals that live for a single year or so and should be replanted every year, or perennials that survive the winter and return once again within the summer. When purchasing and growing, pay consideration to what type of flowers thrive inside your climate as well ass the sun requirements.

 

When flower gardener, you must decide what type of look you would like before growing. For instance, mixing various heights, colors, and varieties of flowers jointly inside a “wild-plant style” will give your garden a meadow look and could be really charming. If brief plants are planted within the front of the garden and perform up to the tallest flowers in the back you’ll use a “stepping stone style”.

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Canada Flowers recommends you order seeds for flower gardening from catalogues or buy them from the nursery. Most people will go towards the nursery and purchase real plants and then transplant them. After you’ve prepared your garden region and bought plants, it is a great concept to lay the flowers out in the bed to ensure you such as the arrangement and that they’ll be spaced properly.

 

One of the easiest processes in bloom gardening is the planting, if you have seeds just sprinkle them close to within the flower bed. For planting transplants dig a hole just larger than the bloom, pull the container off, and set the bloom in the hole correct side up. Cover it with the loose soil and press down firmly, then drinking water.

 

Maintaining a bloom garden is even simpler than planting one. Even though they might make it on their personal, a bag of fertilizer utilized in the early spring is really a good concept. Pinch back any blooms following they start to fade and maintain them good and watered. To save your self perform throughout the next year or so of flower gardening, rid your garden of all debris and spread out organic nutrients like peat moss or compost. Don’t forget to turn more than the soil to correctly mix in the fertilizer and rake smooth when finished. If you’ve perennials planted be cautious to not disturb their roots in this process.

 

Flower gardener is as easy as 1, 2, and three: simply choose what to plant; plant it, and drinking water, water, drinking water! Flower gardening is undoubtedly attaining in popularity and provides anybody exceptional cause to spend some outdoors and test out their green thumb.

Herbs come in three varieties: annual; biennial, and perennial. Annuals and biennials bloom once only (annuals in their first year, biennials in their second year), drop seeds, then die, while perennials just keep going – dying back over winter then growing again in the spring. Growing perennial herbs outdoors is great because they’re easy-care and keep coming back to make your garden look beautiful year after year. Perennial herbs include mint, oregano, marjoram, sage, thyme, and tarragon, which are also some of the very best herbs for culinary purposes.

Here are some of the very best outdoor perennial herb-growing tips:

As for any new garden bed, you should begin by preparing the soil. At a minimum you should loosen the soil and add organic matter to it. Many herbs like a faster-draining soil, so consider digging up your garden bed and putting in a layer of crushed rock first, then soil over the top.

If you’re growing plants from seed, it’s really better to start them in trays or pots for the first year, rather than planting them directly in the ground. They’ll have little presence in the first year anyway, and having them in a container like this will allow you to more easily keep an eye on them.

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Always keep plants well-watered when they are getting established after being transplanted. You can (and should) back off on the watering once they are established, though.

If your perennials aren’t doing as well as you’d hoped, look up the pH requirements for those plants and then test the pH for your soil. You might find that it’s not as alkaline as your plants would like.

Perennials should live for 4-5 years, but if you have some that do poorly no matter what you do, first try transplanting them to a different spot, but if that doesn’t work, cut your losses and euthanize them. Gardening is often a process of trial and error, informed by a little research and some educated guesses.

Perennial gardens aren’t all about the plants. When you’re planning out your garden, consider adding such things as low stone walls, borders and stepping stones. If you have some perennials that are adapted to warmer conditions than where you live, stone and rock features in your garden will help them to survive by absorbing the sun’s rays and then emitting warmth at night.

It’s best to ‘deadhead’ (remove with a pair of secateurs) spent flowers, as leaving dead flowers on your plants both looks ugly and won’t promote re-blooming.

Perennials won’t need as much water as (for example) a vegetable garden, and some perennial herbs (once established) won’t need any additional water at all. If you live somewhere very hot then you might need to water during summer, but do it with a drip system to avoid getting the foliage wet.

Hopefully these tips on growing perennial herbs come in handy and your herb garden flourishes.

A very popular type of gardening is perennial gardening. The reason for this is with perennials, every year the flowers and plants grow back after the winter and bloom again. Planting a few annuals in the garden can add some variety and color, but it is generally best to plant perennials to conserve money and time planting.

A great number of different perennials are available including my favorites, allium bulbs and bearded iris bulbs. Both are simple to grow only requiring lots of sun and well drained soil. These bulbs make excellent additions because of their number of blooms, color, and size. It is common for bulbs to multiply over time. After a few years you may need to remove or transplant a portion of them to new areas if they are taking over the space.

There is a wide range of climates where you can grow perennials. No matter where you live, there are bound to be plenty of perennials for you to choose from for the garden. When choosing what to grow, I usually plant the taller perennials in the back with shorter ones near the front of the bed of flowers. It is good practice to vary the types of plants and leaf color. This often makes for a more well rounded garden. It is also good to consider the season that all the different bulbs will bloom in. It is nice to have a variety of bloom times throughout the year so you always have something blooming. Allium bulbs and bearded iris bulbs both have good bloom times, this contributes to their popularity. It is always a good idea to plan the garden before starting any of your planting. This makes everything easier in the long run. It can be hard on plants to keep moving them all the time, but once in a while is okay. Again, most bulbs like lots of sun and good soil. Have fun planting.?