The Meanings of Flower

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All gardens are not created equal. Some gardens have too much shade, and some not enough. You may be thinking that there are not many plants that you can grow in the shade, but there are plenty of shade perennials that are worth trying. Here in the Mid South, even plants that are considered full sun actually appreciate a little afternoon shade. There are a few tips that can make shade gardening with perennials a breeze such as assessing your site, creating the amount of shade you want, and picking plants that do well in your area.

Shade Gardening Tips

The first tip for planting shade perennials is to choose a spot that has little competition from trees that have surface roots such as maples, sweet gums, and dogwoods. The term “surface roots” means just what it says. The roots of the trees grow on the surface of the ground. This causes a problem with competition for water and nutrients if you plant perennials around these roots.

Giving your plants a good growing environment with little competition is the first step to a great garden. The second tip is to assess your site before you plant.

Assessing Your Site

Assessing your site and identifying light and shade levels for that area is important. Simply take a walk around your yard and observe what areas get full sun and which areas are truly shady areas. Remember, light levels change throughout the year as the seasons change and as trees leaf out or grow to maturity. Keep notes in a journal as to what areas receive shade in the morning, midday, and early afternoon. Note whether the area is full shade, partial shade, or full sun. For the beginner gardener, those terms may be a little confusing.

Here’s a quick primer on what those terms mean.

Full shade areas have a dense canopy where no direct sunlight penetrates, or perhaps the plant is in the shadow of an evergreen tree or building all day.

Partial shade means that the garden receives dappled shade throughout the day. This simply means that you can see some portions of the sky through the leaves above you. Another type of partial shade is the garden that is more densely shaded for a part of the day but receives bright sunlight for two to six hours.

The third type of area is full sun which means the area receives at least six hours of direct sunlight during the day. Once you have assessed your site and understand what type of shade you have. Next, you may want to create the amount of shade you want for your garden.

Create the Amount of Shade You Want

The third tip to increase your success with shade gardening, is to try altering the amount of light that enters your shade garden bed to suit your needs and the needs of the plants you want to plant. Prune trees to decrease the amount of shade and to create a high canopy that your plants will love. This also creates more air flow which is healthy for you and your plants since it decreases mold and mildew. To create more shade; plant trees, add walls and fences, build a lath house, or put a shade cloth over a simple plastic pipe structure, build an arbor or gazebo. Using vines on structures is also a quick way to create more shade.

Pick the Right Plants for Your Zone

Once you have assessed your area and created the type of shade you want, you are ready to plant. Go to your local garden center, or to your local extension service website, for a list of plants that do well in your area. You will find both a wealth of information. Below is a list of some top shade loving perennial performers for the Mid South.

Ten Shade Perennials for the Mid South

Italian arum (Arum italicum)
Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium)
Green and gold (Chrysogonum virginianum)
Cardinal flower (Lobelia Cardinalis)
Solomon’s seal (Polyanatum odoratum)
Spiderwort (Tradescantia x Andersoniana)
Lenten rose (Helleborus spp.)
Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum)
Astilbe (Astilbe x Arendsii)
Toad lily (Tricyrtus formosana)

Visiting local public and botanical gardens, attending local garden tours, joining local garden clubs, and visiting your local extension service website, is a great way to learn more about perennials that do well in your area.

Given the right conditions, your plants will thrive. Remember, remove competition, asses your site, create the amount of shade you want and you will be on your way to a gorgeous yard that you will enjoy all season. Keep in mind that there are also ferns, vines, annuals, and shrubs that do well in shade. As a general rule, plants that do well in the shade have large, flat leaves that help them absorb light for photosynthesis and growth. They will generally have fewer flowers and seeds than plants grown in the sun. Think foliage, color, and texture for shady areas in your garden. This list of ten shade perennials is a good place to start for gardeners in the Mid South, but part of the fun of gardening is experimenting with different types of plants so be sure to go out there and find the plants that will be on your own list of “favorites” and enjoy the journey.

Article by Linda Pollitt

Why is it so Important?

In recent years, the popularity of wildlife gardening has grown dramatically. Not only are gardeners increasingly aware of our declining wildlife and keen to play a role in its survival, but they are also discovering the joy of sharing a garden with native species.

We share our small garden with birds, frogs, toads, hedgehogs and even the odd fox. Nothing quite beats the magic of breakfast outside on a sunny morning, watching the birds feed, squabble and sing.

Jane Davies.

The past 100 years have seen the loss of some of our most precious habitats. Ecologist Janice Crook explains “Estimates vary widely, but it seems that since 1945 we have lost something like 50% of our ancient woodland, and 95% of our flower-rich meadows.” Little wonder then that many of our most loved wild animal species have also declined dramatically. Even once common species such as tree sparrows are at risk – these lively garden visitors are now on the RSPB’s red data list for endangered species.

Even tiny wildlife areas can help to stem the decline by providing a safe home for native plants and animals. It might seem that one small garden cannot make a difference to such a huge problem, but with around fifteen million private gardens in Britain, covering up to three million acres of land, gardeners really can make a difference. If even a fraction of these gardeners gave some of their land over to wildlife habitat they could provide many new homes for our most endangered species. Gardens have special value because they are arranged into networks of green space, often going into the very hearts of our largest cities, and forming safe ‘wildlife corridors’ along which animals and plants can travel.

As our farmland and other natural areas continue to be degraded or developed, gardens will become ever more important as wildlife refuges.

A Wildlife Food Supply

If you have the space, select a range of plants that can supply different types of food throughout the year. The following guidelines will help you to maximise the amount of pollen and nectar available in your garden:

- plant a range of species that flower at different times of the year;

- include some early flowering plants, as early spring is a critical time for many insects;

- include plenty of species where the nectar and pollen is available near the surface of the flower;

- select simple flowers where the pollen and nectar are easy for insect visitors to reach – avoid double flowers and others that are difficult for insects to tackle. Also be aware that some garden flowers are sterile.

What To Do

Small changes can make a tremendous difference to the amount of wildlife attracted into your garden. For instance, by incorporating native plants carrying scented flowers, seeds and berries you can attract birds, bees, butterflies, and many other desirable animals, as well as predatory insects such as ladybirds. Butterflies, moths and songbirds feed mainly on nectar, pollen and seed. Bees too are attracted by nectar.

You can incorporate ‘food’ plants throughout the garden or perhaps plan a ‘service station border’ which contains a mixture of flowering and fruiting shrubs, herbaceous perennials and colourful bedding plants, all chosen to provide food for wildlife. If you only have a small window box select beautiful flowering annuals to attract bees and butterflies, as well as brightening up a window sill.

The following list shows some of the most successful border flowers and shrubs offering pollen, nectar and seeds, but remember that wildflowers can be important too.

Garden plants to look out for include: Christmas rose (Helleborus niger), winter aconite (Earanthus hyemalis), elephant’s ears (Bergenia cordifolia), anenome (Anenome blanda), polyanthus (Primula vulgaris elatior), honesty (Lunaria biennis), sweet rocket (Hesperis matronalis), forget-me-not (Myosotis spp.), leopard’s bane (Doronicum pardalianches), sweet william (Dianthus barbatus), shasta daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum), cranesbill (Geranium spp.), sweet bergamot (Monarda didyma), oriental poppy (Papaver orentiale), valerian (Centranthus ruber), angelica (Angelica archangelica), lovage (Levesticum officinale), yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), hollyhock (Alcea rosa), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), teasel (Dipsacus fullonum), mint (Mentha rotundifolia), meadow saffron (Colchium autumnale).

Wildflowers that are particularly good as a source of nectar or seeds include: lesser burdock (Articum minus), hemp agrimony (Eupatorium cannabinum), field scabious (Knautia arvensis), foxglove (Digitalis purpurea), woody nightshade (Solanum dulcamara), wild thyme (Thymus serpyllum), betony (Stachys officinalis), and hedge woundwort (Stachys sylvatica).

Shrubs to attract wildlife include: Buddleia (Buddleia spp.), Chaenomeles japonica, Pyracantha coccinea, Amelanchier canadensis, Cotoneaster frigida, Viburnum tinus, Viburnum bodnantense, Mahonia spp., Cytisus scoparius (broom), and shrub roses of all kinds.

In addition, where possible incorporate native tree and shrub species, such as hawthorn, guelder rose, and elder in the UK, as these are particularly attractive to native insects and birds.

For more articles and advice on gardening visit To try a free home study gardening course visit {a href=”http://www.onthecurve.co.uk”>Learning Curve.

Article by Melissa Rubin

Although your planting is done, don’t think your green gardening responsibilities are finished yet! August is the month of pruning, testing, and freshening up your organic gardens. So before you decide to that that family vacation you’ve been dying to take, take these precautions and check to make sure your garden is growing and healthy.

Ignore the Foul MoldWhen you have recently laid mulch on your garden beds, it is normal for certain slime mold to develop. It will have a bright yellow mass that eventually changes to pale gray spores. Although the look of it might be unsavory, the actual mold is not harmful to your plants. In fact, once it hits the gray stage, if disturbed will erupt in a cloud and layer your plants with a layer of dust.

Order Spring BulbsOrdering spring bulbs now shows your true expertise as a green gardener because it will allow you to take your pick on any selection of bulbs you want for fall delivery.

Cut back PerennialsCut them back only if they have already bloomed! This encourages a second flowering, as well as a tidy, compacted re-growth of the leaves. Coneflowers, catmint, early season salvias, daisies and lamb’s ears are all perennials that should be hedged.

Conduct a Lawn Soil TestYou can also test the soil in September, as long as it is before the traditional fall renovations of your green garden. The lawn soil tests will tell you how much fertilizer and liming your lawn needs, as well as gives you the nutrient levels, pH and organic matter.

Freshen the GardenThis is a general to-do that you should do every few months anyway. Specific clean-up tasks to do in August include cutting back the spent perennials, wedding beds, trimming leggy annuals and laying new mulch.

Check Tomato Plants before LeavingIf your plans for a family vacation are finally developing, make sure to check your tomato plants for ripening fruit before you leave. Tomatoes that are just starting to redden can actually ripen in any sunny area; bring them with you in a long car ride and put them on the dashboard! If you aren’t going to be traveling in a sunny place, offer them to friends or family members.

Pull up CrabgrassMake sure you keep an eye out for crabgrass and pull up the clumps before the seeds ripen. For stubborn clumps, dampen the soil around the crabgrass the night before, then use a sharp knife or hoe to dig it out – otherwise pull it up by hand.

Article by Kathy Wilson

Just because the garden is asleep doesn’t mean there isn’t plenty to do for winter gardeners. Winter gardening takes advantage of little or no plant growth at this time of year to force us to concentrate on admittedly less attractive, but equally important tasks. There are many things you can do this time of year to make sure that your winter garden turns into the spring garden of your dreams.

*If the cold permits, use the winter in the garden to work on structure and hardscaping. This is a great time to plan or build arbors, built in seating, edging and paths. Winter allows you to see the bones of the garden to help you visualize where it needs some hardscaping. Perhaps your paths need to be redirected, or you see a spot that could use a trellis and some height. Take advantage of the bare winter garden to provide your plants with a background and structure.

*Use this time to redesign your flower beds. If you haven’t already created a garden notebook, now is a good time to start. Draw a diagram of each part of your garden, and mark the spot of the flowers, shrubs and bulbs. You may have to add items as spring approaches, and up pops that plant you had forgotten about! Get a basic layout of your garden, and consider what worked last year, and what didn’t. Note blank spots in the garden, and use paper templates to try new combinations of flowers within your beds. Color your paper templates to help you visualize the effect on the garden. Make a separate page for each plant you have in your garden, and note as much information as you can about it.

*This is the time to browse those garden seed catalogs! Don’t wait until spring, by then it will be too late to grow from seed for this season for most plants. Consider ordering some new varieties of old garden favorites such as sunflowers, coneflower and foxglove.

*If you want to plant vegetables this year, now is the time to prepare your beds. Till or spade under your chosen vegetable plot, then add organic matter and fertilizer and till in. Allow to sit several weeks to settle, until proper plating time for your area. This will prevent any hot spots in the garden from your organic matter and fertilizer, and allow the soil to settle to prevent drying out of the roots.

*Start some seeds indoors to have plants ready to put out in the garden after last frost. Now is the time to grow those plants from seed you can’t find at the nursery. Your indoor seed growing station can be as complicated as a deluxe indoor greenhouse with lights, or as simple as a re-used egg carton on a windowsill. Some easy plants to grow indoors from seed include most sun loving annuals and such perennials as Shasta Daisy, Black Eyed Susan, Coneflower, Coreopsis and many ornamental grasses. Growing perennials from seed can save you hundreds of dollars, as the average 4 inch pot perennial sells for -, and a packet of seeds that might produce 100 plants averages .

*Finally, go over all your tools and supplies, and find out what needs repair, attention or replacement. The last thing you want is for that first spring day to arrive and you rush out to pop those first seeds in the ground, only to find your gloves need to be replaced or your spade handle is breaking!

Just because the weather is cold doesn’t mean gardeners must sleep! Use the time wisely, and you will be rewarded with plenty of time to enjoy those spring bulbs and fragrant flowers in just a short time!

Article by John J. Marshall

This is the third in a series of articles on common gardening mistakes.

A third mistake is beginning your gardening project without enough information about plants. In this article, I’ll give you a list of things you need to know about them, and help you find that info.

As I wrote in my last article on gardening mistakes, gardening should be pleasant and satisfying. Much of the satisfaction comes from success. Without it, you’d probably give up. So would I. So we need to know as much about our craft as possible. We don’t need to be experts, either. Just a littleinformation is enough to start. But I bet that the more you learn, the more you’ll want to learn.

Life Cycle

One of the first things you’ll need to know when selecting plants is their life cycle. A life cycle describes how long it takes for a plant to grow, flower, produce seed and die. Imagine how disappointed you would be to plant a flower expecting years of pleasure, only to have it die within a season. Knowing the life cycle of any plant will help you choose one for its intended use and avoid disappointment.

There are three types of life cycles: annual, biennial, and perennial. An annual plant is one that grows, flowers, seeds and dies within a single growing season. Examples include marigolds, tomatoes, and zinnias. A biennial plant is one that grows during the first season, then produces flowers, seeds and dies the second season. Examples include cabbage, carrots, foxglove, money plant and parsley. A perennial plant is one that requires at least three years to complete its life cycle. Examples include chrysanthemums, daylilys, hostas, roses, woody shrubs and trees.

Though it may confuse matters a bit, there are some biennials and perennials that produce flowers during the first growing season. If they are too tender to live through the winter, gardeners may use them as annuals, enjoying them for a single year and planting them again the next year.

Habit

This refers to the characteristic appearance of the plant. There are common and scientific terms that are used to describe plant appearances. I won’t go into them here. But it is important for you to know the habit of plants you might choose for your landscape. Know that looks can be deceiving, especially when the plant is young, so a little research is necessary. Imagine your dismay if you purchase a plant thinking it has a low, mounding habit because it looked that way at the nursery only to discover that it has an upright, ascending one.

Size

Certainly, plants should be chosen with purpose in mind. Size is a factor in whether a plant suits a purpose, so it’s important to know its potential or ultimate size. Let’s consider foundation planting around a house. Though certain shrubs may be just the right size for a few years, they can outgrow their usefulness. And I’m not inclined to spend weekends pruning them to maintain an appropriate size. So I plant with potential or ultimate size in mind.

Growth Rate

Growth rate is nearly as important a factor as plant size. Because we tend to be impatient, we want plants that grow fast so they will look mature or fulfill their purpose in short order. But the problem is that plants which grow quickly may not stop growing when you think they should. If you want a large plant, my advice is to buy one.

Hardiness – cold and heat

Plants can’t migrate when summer or winter approach, so they must be chosen with cold-hardiness and heat-tolerance in mind. The fact that you find a plant for sale at your local big-box is no indication that it is appropriate for your area. Again, a little basic research is necessary.

And while you’re at it, learn the following characteristics of any plant: moisture requirement, nutrient requirements, pH requirement and sun exposure preference. If you have a deer problem, research that, too. With this information, you’ll be able to choose plants appropriately according to what you’ve already learned about your planting site. For “how-to” information on that, see my last blog post.

I promised that I’d help you find plant information. Here are some places to look:

Check out the plant listings at goGardenNow.com. You’ll find some basic facts such as plant hardiness, sun exposure, moisture and pH requirements.

Read articles here and in my blog at goGardenNow.blogspot.com. You’ll find plenty of information now, and there’s more to come.

Consult books. With so much information on the internet, it’s fair to ask whether books are even necessary. I think so for a few reasons:

If you own them you usually know where to find them, provided you haven’t loaned them out;They seem easier on the eye;They don’t burn your lap when you’re reading in bed;They may become collectible.

Your local public library is a treasure trove of information. Not only may you borrow books, but you may be able to buy some cheap. Libraries often have periodic book sales. Some even devote part of their space to permanent book sales, so you may be able to purchase great material for a couple of dollars.

As I write this, I’m scanning the shelves around my desk. The vast majority of my books on plants were published by Timber Press. You should check out their online catalog. The National Arboretum Book Of Outstanding Garden Plants by Jacqueleine Heriteau with Dr. Marc Cathey, published by Simon and Schuster, is worth owning.

If you insist on browsing the internet, a quick search will turn up lots of information on practically any plant that comes to mind.

To learn more go to goGardenNow.com and goGardenNow.blogspot.com.

Now’s the time to take semi-ripe cuttings from some of your favourite shrubs like Hebe’s, Rosemary, Weigela, Ceanothus and Hydrangeas. Take the cuttings from the current year’s growth just below a leaf, remove the leaves from the lower half of the cutting and dip the end in rooting hormone. Then insert the cuttings in pots of cuttings compost. Cover the pots with a polythene bag or put them in a propagator and place somewhere warm and sheltered but out of strong, direct sunlight. They should be ready to pot on in a few weeks. Don’t forget to pick up everything you need when shopping to ensure perfect cuttings including pots, cuttings compost, dibbers, rooting hormone, labels and propagators.

To get the most from wisteria it’s important to build up a good framework of permanent branches to cover the support, so make sure you tie in stems as they grow. And now’s the time to give your wisteria its summer prune. Cut back all this year’s leafy side shoots to five to seven leaflets. After pruning feed with a potash-rich granular feed such as a rose fertiliser. And if you were jealous of everyone else’s wisterias earlier this year then get buying and planting today, wisterias can take many years to flower so the longer you leave it the longer you are without beautiful wisteria blooms. Remember they need a spot in full sun and a sturdy trellis or similar for support.

Weeds can soon take over the garden and not only do they look unsightly, but they can smother your prized plants, steal valuable water and nutrients from the soil and become hosts to pests and diseases. Now’s the time for an all-out assault on them using a hoe for annuals and small weeds, mulches and planting membranes to keep beds and borders permanently weed free and weedkillers to stop even the most persistent weeds taking over. Use a weedkiller based on Glyphosate for persistent, deep-rooted perennials.

If your family is already getting bored of the summer holidays entertain them in the safety of your own garden. There are a large range of garden games available from trampolines to croquet.

Get the most from all your plants growing in beds and borders by giving them a little care and attention. Plants that have finished flowering should be dead-headed or cut back, and fed with a high potash fertiliser – many will reward you with further flushes of flowers.

Gardens are for enjoying – and the summer is the best time to do it. So make sure you sit back, relax and enjoy your garden this year from the comfort of your own garden furniture. Or entertain friends and family with a slap-up barbecue. And if you plan to stay out late add some easy to install garden lighting such as many of the solar lanterns available

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During periods of hot dry weather the water in ponds can be very short of oxygen which will affect the fish and plants; if your fish are gulping at the surface it’s a sure sign they need more oxygen. Make sure your pond contains plenty of oxygenating plants and add a pump and waterfall or fountain as the constant movement of water is one of the best ways of aerating it. Fish will be very active now, so feed them little and often with a high protein fish food.

If you’re off on holiday soon or want to make the most of long days in the garden, use your time wisely and read a good gardening book or two. You can gen up on your favourite plants, plan next year’s garden, a new area in the garden or a new feature – or just brush up on your gardening techniques.

During the warm, dry days of summer pests like red spider mite, aphids and whitefly and diseases like                                     
Mildew can really take hold and get out of control. Check plants regularly – daily if possible – for signs of trouble and deal with it quickly. One or two pests can soon become a major outbreak during warm weather. Ready-to-use sprayers are the quick and easy answer to your problems. Slugs and snails will also become busy after a cooling summer shower, so make sure you have controls ready to hand. If your plants have a problem ask one of our friendly staff to help you choose a suitable product to deal with it.

If you haven’t already done so, make sure you shade your greenhouse to prevent plants inside getting scorched. Use a shading wash or hang up fleece or shade netting. And keep vents open during warm weather; installing automatic vent openers will do the work for you. Water plants daily – or as and when they need it – and feed every seven to 10 days or so to ensure healthy growth and plenty of flowers and fruit. Damp down paths daily with a few gallons of water to help improve humidity.

Tomatoes are our favourite home-grown vegetable and a little care and attention now will ensure bumper crops throughout the summer. Make sure your plants are well supported – tying them in as they grow, remove sideshoots from upright cordon varieties, remove yellowing or dying leaves and watch out for pests and diseases, then treat accordingly. Feed weekly with a liquid tomato fertiliser and water regularly so that the compost or soil remains evenly moist.

If you love cooking indoors or are spending the long, sunny days and evenings barbecuing, then you’ll appreciate having plenty of herbs. If you don’t have room in the rest of the garden, then plant up a herb pot with all your culinary favourites so they’re easily to hand when you need them. From Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme to Basil and Mint your local garden centre have all the herbs you’ll need for a potpourri of scents and tastes.

If your lawn is looking tired and run down, give it a boost now with a liquid feed. And where weeds or moss are a problem use a liquid feed, weed and moss killer. Keep mowing regularly when the grass is growing to ensure it looks its best. You can leave small clippings on the lawn as they will help conserve soil moisture. But when a good soak is needed – lawns use around 4 gallons of water per square yard per week – use a lawn sprinkler set on a timer to avoid wasting water and making your water bill shoot up.

If you have colour gaps in your beds, borders and containers now is a good time to plug them. Treat you and your garden to an eye-catching tree or specimen plant like a tree fern, Fatsia Japonica, Phormium or grasses. Or if your garden is looking a bit flat put up an arch, pergola or trellis and cover it with colourful climbers. Look out for our instant colour from our wide range of shrubs, herbaceous plants and seasonal bedding. And if your patio is looking tired or colourless pop in some large container plants for instant impact.

Make sure your garden is bursting with colour this summer with our plants of the month. There’s plenty to choose from for long-lasting interest including Fuchsias, Roses, Penstemons, Lavatera, Lavender and Spiraea. And don’t forget our huge range of summer-flowering herbaceous perennials. Bring your garden to life with our plants of the month.

Make sure your plants produce a display to be proud of by giving them just the right amount of water. Well-established plants may not need watering but newly planted ones, bedding plants and plants in containers will all need regular watering. Using a hosepipe with a watering gun is quicker and easier than using a watering can and helps prevent water wastage. If you have a lot of plants in containers, in the greenhouse or large areas of the garden that need watering, consider installing a micro drip watering system. If you use a watering computer too, they will even water your plants while you’re away.

Gardeners in sunny Southern California can always plant vegetables and flowers in September and October for their fall and winter enjoyment. Most gardeners in the mid section and northern states are finishing up with their gardens for the year and are getting ready for the winter frost.

We need to prepare our soil by removing all annuals, till the soil and add plenty of compost or organic mix. If we wait a couple of weeks before planting we will give the weeds time to germinate, thus removing them while they are small will be easier than waiting until later. At the end of September, we can start planting our fall and winter flower gardens. In September our nights are usually cool and the days can be warm to hot, especially when the autumn Santa Ana winds start blowing. In the sunny areas we can plant delphiniums, larkspur, pansies, snapdragon, and Iceland poppy; the shady areas can take daisies and primrose.  

Now is also the time of the year when our perennials start losing their vividness. We need to remove all the old summer flowers and to trim back the overpowering growth of the plants. We can also plant some wildflowers by gently raking the soil, spread some seed, and lightly cover the seed with soil. Once the rains come to Southern California, these seeds will start germinating.

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We need to start planting our spring flowering bulbs now. We need to purchase the bulbs as soon as we see them in our nurseries, and home and garden centers. The bulbs need to be fairly heavy for their size and firm when squeezed, if we aren’t going to plant immediately, store them in a cool dry place until ready. Now is the best time for planting daffodils, hyacinths and tulips.

When our summer vegetables are no longer giving us a good crop, which is usually late in September or October, we need to remove them and plant new vegetable plants that will continue to produce through the winter. Some of these vegetables are broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, and peas.

The Santa Ana winds that we get can produce chaos to our newly planted garden. The winds will draw out the water from the leaves and the shallow root system cannot replace it as fast as the winds take it. If we don’t provide enough water, the winds can destroy our garden in just a few days. Once the winds pick up we need to quickly get the garden hose and give our precious plants the needed moisture.

Sometimes fall gardening in Southern California can be pretty tricky, but as long as we keep on top of the wind conditions we should be just fine. Having a winter vegetable garden is fun for the entire family.

Did you ever want to turn your backyard into a garden but then you gave up because you didn’t know anything about gardening? You don’t have to do that anymore: gardening is actually not as hard as people might think it is. If you know a few basic rules, then you can have your own garden without much effort. The time you need to create a garden is not too long, and it is definitely a good way to relax. The beauty and scent of the blooming flowers will repay you for your effort, you can be sure of that. Here are a few basic gardening tips, that will help you gain that beautiful garden you’ve always dreamed of.

Flowers grow and bloom, but so do weeds. There can be a lot of unwanted weed among your plants. This is natural, since most weed seeds are carried by the wind and it is impossible to stop their spreading. Weeds are usually stronger than flowers and much more resistant, so they have a bigger chance of survival even in bad conditions. Get rid of weeds in your garden, because they take away the water and the minerals from your flowers. The best way is to rip them out with their roots to make sure that they won’t grow back again. You can also use weedkiller products, but avoid using sprays, because they can destroy your flowers as well.

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Most of the flowers and plants require certain conditions, otherwise they won’t survive or they will be very weak. Water your garden regularly, at least once a week, and more often if it’s a very dry hot summer. Deep watering is relevant because that way the roots can absorb much more minerals and the flowers will be more fresh looking and beautiful.

At all times try to avoid the use of chemicals in your garden. Most of the chemicals do more harm than good. For instance if you use a pesticide, it kills the bad insects but the beneficial ones as well. This way you will only destroy the natural balance of the garden. Some chemicals are also harmful for the plants and flowers, and they can be dangerous for humans and pets as well. For all problems there are organic, natural products that you can use instead of the chemicals.

If you want to fertilize your garden, choose fertilizers that are organic. Don’t use too much fertilizer, most of the times the soil contains already a lot of minerals that the plants need. The minimal amount of fertilizer is enough to give your flowers extra strength and resistance. Use this regularly, especially if you water your flowers very often. Repeated watering washes away nutrition from the earth and that’s why you should add fertilizer to it.

Cutting of dead flowers and leaves will not only make your garden look more beautiful and organized, but it is also beneficial for the plants. Most of the flowers will bloom more if the dead flowers heads are removed. Some perennials will have new flowers only if the dead flower heads are cut, like dahlias and geraniums. Similarly, there are some plants that require their top to be pinched out. This way they will be more bushy and have more flowers. Some of them will grow too high if you don’t do this, like fuchsias for instance.

For as long as human kind has sought ways to inhance the flavor of food, herbs have been used to delight the palet, treat illness and provide aromatherapy.
In the past they were belived to have magical powers and to a certain extent that belief may be well founded. If you iave ever used a little lavender on your pillow or that of your child to help get to sleep, ingested some sparemint to help the tummy ache, or used sage ot add just the right mouthwatering flavor to a dish, you may think of herbs as having magical powers.

Many folks raise herb gardens at home, the freshness and convienience is rewarding. Some tips for herb gardening follow:

1. Plan your garden with annuals as well as perennials in mind. What should you plant? Take a look in your kitchen and see what you’ve used in the past.
Continue your research here on the web and maybe get some ideas for some new herbs you might enjoy growing and using. Perhaps simply growing and enjoying the aroma of a mint or lavender patch would be it’s own reward. You can always put sprig of fresh spearmint in water or other drinks to add wonderful flavor as well as sooth the stomach.

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2. Depending on space limitations you may want to plant annuals away from perennials or you may want to mix them together, the thing is you don’t want to disturb you perennials when pulling up your annuals and replanting them. It’s also a good idea to have perennials on the outer edges so as to allow for annual tilling. Some plants like lavender and mint can overpower others and take over your garden area. Mint and spearmint can be a good ground cover with attractive aromas.

3. Plants grow to different heights and short plants can have the light all but blotted out by taller larger plants so keep shorter plants where they can grow with ample light.

4. A lot of gardeners use containers for herbs, thus keeping them from the main garden area. Herb pots are available with three or more outlets at different levels in the pot. Plant water lovers on the first level add soil and plant the next layer, plants that like it dryer would be planted last.

5. Some herbs will not take up much space and you could make a nice little garden out of an old wooden stepladder, lie the ladder on the ground and plant your spices in between the rungs. Instant herb garden. The small size required also allows for a square bisected so that you can reach all plants from the center walkways. A small circular garden made from an old wagon wheel can be attractive. Plant herbs between the tines.

6. You can give your herbs a head start by germinating the seeds indoors before planting. Take an old cloth or even a paper towel and place it on a cookie sheet or saucer after having soaked it and rung it out. Pour seeds into it and fold it over to cover the seeds. Keep moist till sprouts begin to appear.

May life yield an abundant harvest of joy for you today.

Gardener\’s inspiration and motivation for farming can adjust, but usually, farming is a hobby has done either as a recreational form of natural art, or as an experiment in nature-sufficiency. And with so many deposit varieties offered ranging from plants to vegetables, it would be quite erratic to find two alike gardens.

Most farming takes place in regions with clement erode, and each period bears the probable for new beauty. Planting can take place some place from early spiral through mid-autumn depending on the position, climate, and place.

Getting your farming resources willing

Before you get ongoing on your gardening propel, there are a few tools and materials essential to begin. Of course, you\’ll poverty a connive of land or sphere within a yard to lodge your patch. The volume and figure of the patch mainly depends on what kind of patch you will grow.

Once you have determined how your backyard will be physically laid out, you\’ll necessity some primitive tools to get starting. A hoe or small till will be required to revolve the soil in which you will hide. For small flower gardens, a hoe or even a small trowel may be sufficient. For better gardens and for the vegetable and fruit gardens, a work, or rototiller, would maybe be more admired.

After you have planted your seeds or plants, they will command water. A plot rinse or watering bucket helps water the backyard, particularly in months when mizzle may be at a smallest. Automatic sprinkler and irrigation systems may also be installed to uphold your patch.

Finally, some gardeners claim on the use of fertilizers and factory foods. While these may not be crucial, they may have a significant impact on your backyard. If vermin and other insects may be a puzzle, you might also ponder investing in an innocent insecticide for treating your plants.

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Common challenges faced in gardening

We aren\’t all \”green thumbs,\” but everybody faces the same primitive troubles in the planting and maintenance of a plot. First, insects and other vermin can source critical issues for an otherwise wholesome backyard. Many nurseries can deal you guidance in usual vermin and place diseases that might be prone to your section or typeface of factory, and should be able to help you prize out a pesticide.

The withstand can also sincerely impede your efforts at maintaining a successful plot. Brutally hot temperatures, require of hail, and other harden conditions during the upward time can stunt growth, avoid blooms, or even slay whole gardens. And, of course, unexpected changes in the survive can cling even the most experienced gardener off-sentinel. Be ready for anything in terms of harden, and this will help thwart surprises later.

Gardening for beauty

Flower gardens wholly add to the overall landscaping of a home or venture, and can add incline at any time of year. Understanding the difference between annuals — which tinge only once and typically die at the end of the spice — and perennials — which, if cared for suitably, will payment again period after spell — can be of great benefit to establish a patch.

Many flower gardens element a set of perennials as part of the landscape, requiring the gardener to cleanly load in the open seat with annuals each year. Popular annuals for flower gardening enter impatiens, begonias, daisies, tulips, and pansies. Some gardens may be intended around an affect chart or theme, and are regularly planned to be incorporated into the larger landscaping theme of the home or commerce.

Gardening for food

Many gardens are shaped for the sole reason of rising and harvesting cooked fruits and vegetables. In some regions of the world, fruit and vegetable gardening is so popular that almost every home on every avenue or highway has at slightest some size plot packed with fruits and vegetables.

While planting and upward plants from seed is fairly regular, shrewd when to plant seeds for a vegetable plot can be a more of a challenge. Many novice gardeners choose to purchase small plants to grow, exit most of the work in maintenance of the plot.

The vegetable and fruit gardens are planted in rows, which makes effective in the patch, the weeding and watering for example, easier. Planting in rows also eases in harvesting the yields of the backyard, as a self can march through the rows next to plants to harvest and tool the food. Common plants in fruits and vegetable gardens compose beans, tomatoes, all varieties of peppers, corn, and radishes. The fruit and vegetables summer gardens, while the yields may not be harvested pending tumble for some vegetables and fruits such as gourds and pumpkins.

For those who like plants for beauty, or those who want to grow crisping food in their backyard, the pleasing hobby of gardening is well merit a try.