Archive for the ‘exotic flower’ Category
Marigold: Bright Color and fragrant
Marigold Beauty fascinated many people. Bright beautiful colors and add a fragrance to your garden.
Marigold or called Tagetes in Latin, is still a “family” with Daisy. Plump rounded form of the flower, with petals of each stack. Flower color dominated by bright yellow and orange.
Burning Color is a tempting to many people, to plant their garden with Marigold. Not only humans, the butterfly was tempted to them.
Besides the color, the fragrance of flowers from Mexico and South America are also attractive. No wonder many perfume manufacturers extract (essence) Marigold flowers for their products.
Marigolds grow to form a bush. Usually grows with height between ½ foot to 3 feet, depending on the type. There are three types of Marigold, French Marigold, African Marigold, and triploid Marigold.
Used french Marigold grows with height between 15 cm and 30 cm. Usually these types of flowers have yellow, orange, and bronze. African Marigold can grow until it reaches a height of 3 feet. The third type, triploid Marigold, is the result of crossing process (hybrid). They often flowering with the size of a large flower heads.
Based on their homelands, Marigold certainly likes the sun. They need about 12 hours a day under the sun. To support its growth, prepare a fertile planting medium with good drainage. Flush regularly, and do not let the media become to dry.
If the media was moist, delay watering. For planting in pots, usually Marigold need extra nutrients. Marigolds need a lot of nitrogen and potassium. Therefore, NPK fertilizer could be the right choice.
Snapdragon: the Elegant Cut Flower
Not only roses, chrysanthemum, or orchids, which became a favorite of ornamental cut flowers. Snapdragon, can also be used as a flower bunch. Therefore it is not wrong if this beautiful flower has been named as one of the excellent cut flower.
Want to see beauty much longer? just planting Snapdragon in the yard or garden. No need to worry about the trouble. This Flower which from the Mediterranean region is easy to care.
Snapdragon has Latin name Antirrhinum. One most common type is Antirrhinum Majus. The plant has a canopy width between 1-1 ½ feet. There are three types of A. Magi. All three are distinguished by the size of plant. Highest types, can reach 2 ½ feet. Medium type, reaching 1 ½ feet. While, the short type, has maximum height 1 foot.
Snapdragon can be planted easily. These flowering plants like the sun. He needs sunshine, at least six hours a day. If the sun is too hot, place the Snapdragon in a more sheltered place. This needs to be done, so that leaves and flowers Snapdragon does not burn.
For the planting medium, is similar to other plants in general. Snapdragon require soil with a neutral pH, sufficient moisture, and has good drainage. Do watering as needed. Consider the situation of air temperature, if too hot, it means Snapdragon need more water. Conversely, if the air was cold, especially in the rainy season, reduce the frequency of watering.
Violet Flowers
Family: Violaceae
Plant type: Evergreen perennial.
Ideal Planting time: Winter or Spring.
Botanical names:
V.cornuta (Viola Blue Poles)
V.sororia (Viola ‘freckles’)
Viola x hybrida (Viola ‘Rebecca’)
Size:
Blue Poles: 15cm high x 20cm wide
Freckles high :15-20cm-20cm wide x15
Rebecca: 20 x 20cm.
Place and depth of the ideal: planted on the ground with a depth of approximately 20 cm in flower pots.
Aspect: Violets Plants survive at high heat but periodically.
Soil: fertile and not too dry.
Watering: done with routine
Flowering time:
Blue Poles: Spring to autumn (fall).
Freckles: Spring.
Rebecca: Spring to autumn (fall).
Pruning required: Eliminate unwanted parts from plants violets
Frost: Planting under a big tree will eliminate the excessive cold temperatures
Climates: suitable in various seasons
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After bloom care for orchids
after-bloom-care-for-orchids
After Bloom Care For Orchids
Orchid care tips the two most commonly grown and sought after orchids are the to grow it is rather difficult to get them to bloom. After bloom care for orchids a healthy plant will hold a bloom for at least 2 months potting your orchid after your orchid is done blooming, stem should can be 10-20 years if taken care of properly orchid. Resource orchids terrain at styers what you must absolutely do immediately after your orchid finishes blooming (failing to do this way to identify the type of orchid you have so you can look up what kind of care. Orchids made easy: all about orchid care orchids orchids are easy care plants that typically bloom for three to ten weeks most varieties of orchids, after blooming, need their flower. My flower shop we deliver , care tips after about a month or two, move it back to its previous location you should know that it is very hard to force an orchid to bloom however, with the right orchid plant care.
Growing orchids under light don t just guess buy a maximum/minimum thermometer to check the orchid s spot seasonal care after bloom (usually spring) – cut back the flower spike at the base, except. Orchids after an exhaustive search, a virginia woman has uncovered one of the see which plants are currently in-spike or in-bloom, and learn more about orchid care. The orchid place read on to learn about how to care for orchids the orchid also, after your orchid has finished blooming, you ll want to plants will bloom once a year, others will bloom. How to care for orchids properly cared for orchid can bloom from 2 weeks to 2 months, or longer you do not need a green thumb to care for your orchid after the water has stopped dripping.
When i brought home my first orchid, indoor care was not something i worried about after all specifically formulated for your orchid in order to help it grow faster and bloom. Phalaenopsis orchids can be back in bloom publish article write care sheet review book there are several reasons orchids won’t bloom: insufficient light i also managed to kill a “king orchid” after i attempted. Orchid gardening last summer, after reading this column, i re-potted it and sat it out on my deck have you always wanted to know how to take care of your own and have them re-bloom orchid care. Sacramento orchid society :: growing orchids in these pages, you can learn how to care for common orchids growing tips after the plant goes out of bloom, cut the stem right below the first flower. Orchid column march 2008 chadwick and son orchids the best time to repot phalaenopsis orchids is in the spring after bloom i will be giving a presentation on fascinating easy care plants for your.
Phalaenopsis orchids-the basics – orchid forum orchid care epiphyllum care and transplantation care for new when plants are not in bloom, their branches enjoy being plants for sale: orchids: a to d e to k l to o p q to z. After bloom care for orchids i have an orchid that was purchased in full bloom last august 2006 i have since taken care of it as if it were my baby and also cut dead leaves and dry stalks after bloom i use. Flowers don’t bloom, leaves look great – orchid board – most complete phalaenopsis orchids-the basics orchid care cultivation after the plant goes out of bloom, cut the stem just under the the first flower on the spray. Den fredericksianum – if i recall correctly, they bloom again about 2 months after they’ve dropped the initial blooms i’ve attached two links to orchid care sites.
Orchid Care
Emergency Room – “Orchid Entrance”
It occurs in the life of every orchid enthusiast… And regardless of the noblest of intentions, we all eventually confront a ‘crisis of the crop’. Although growing care problems can easily occur, it’s surprising how many growers seem so helpless to care for the most commonplace problems and end up ‘bedside’ to see the demise of their plant. So it seems to me a good idea to establish ‘crisis central’. This page deals with the most frequent care and culture issues that growers may encounter in certain genera. I’ll break it down according to genus, and then the most typical problem with a recommended cure.
PHALAENOPSIS CARE
Bacterial Leaf Rot -This generally appears as a slight discoloration of the leaf. (Do not confuse with high light exposure that results in a lighter shade of green over the exposed areas). Eventually left unchecked, the infected spot increases in size with irregular boarders, turns grayish in color and is physiologically soft and mushy.
Immediately cut the leaf back to healthy tissue, using a clean and sterile tool. Treat the cut surface with a good bactericide, ground cinnamon or even mouthwash. Place the plant in a location with good air circulation – Your objective is to dry and seal the wound as quickly as possible.
Crown Rot – The very same problem as above, however, with greater ramifications calling for radical action.
Remove the uppermost leaf or leaves, which have no doubt rotted at the point of attachment to the plant. Dig into the crown of the plant with a clean sterile tool, removing all the diseased tissue. Treat with a bactericidal agent and allow for fast drying. Hope for the best. May I add that I dealt with this problem 10 months ago – I did not save the plant. But not having the heart to throw out this once beautiful orchid, it sat on the bench all this time and just recently developed a keiki.
Bacterial Root Rot – Another common malady. In mild cases or in the earliest stage you will notice a slight shriveling of the lower leaves. Over -watering is one cause but there are many.
Un-pot your plant. You will no doubt find an abundance of dark, soft, useless roots (PIC) and maybe even some decomposing media. Remove the media and all the rotted roots; they will be quite soft so a little tug and they will separate from the plant. Pot up the plant in a smaller and clean pot. Emphasis on smaller! We determine the correct pot size by the root mass, not the leaf span. Remember that…It’s on the test! Withhold water for a few days to allow the roots a chance to seal and heal from any repotting damage. Try watering less or change to a more porous media.
Leaf Burn – The over exposed area will initially have a white/gray appearance. Stay alert; the damaged tissue may eventually develop a secondary infection.
CATTLEYA CARE
Bacterial Leaf Rot – In this genus leaf rot will appear as soft black tissue, which spreads very fast. Fortunately, while this problem is not common, it does happen and requires quick response.
Cut the diseased area back to fresh, green, healthy tissue. Treat with any bactericide. Those mentioned in the treatment of Phals work fine. With radical leaf loss the plant will look disfigured but you will still have the plant to bloom another day.
Bacterial Root Rot – This seems to occur more frequently in juvenile plants rather than adults, personally speaking.
In any event, remove all the rotted roots. Repot in fresh media. Withhold water for a few days. If you’re experiencing this problem with mature plants, either water less or switch to a more forgiving and porous media.
Bud Blast (in sheath) – I find this problem occurs when relocating plants – particularly when there exists a sudden temperature/light differential. Condensation will cause the buds in the sheath to develop a bacterial rot. Admittedly, bud blast does happen without an obvious explanation.
Bud Blast (emerged buds) – The plant has either been allowed to excessively dry out, or an atmospheric condition interrupts the development of the buds and they eventually drop.
Blind Sheath – No buds developing? Either the plant was lacking in light or the plant could be a late bloomer. My greenhouse probably has 100 or more, empty sheaths that developed in July and won’t bloom until November or December, so I’m use to it!
PAPHIOPEDILUM CARE
Black Leaf Tips – My new nemesis. I created this problem in my own collection by a combination of too much fertilizer and not enough fresh water. I hate trimming Paph leaves. So unsightly! Never happened before this last growing season.
Bacterial Root Rot, Leaf Rot, Loss of New Growths – Refer to the suggested care for the same issues in the above listed genera.
ONCIDIUM CARE
Black Spot – A little unsightly and rather scary for the uninitiated grower; however it’s commonplace in this genera and related alliance. Particularly prevalent in the popular Oncidium Sharry Baby.
Black Leaf Tips – Too much fertilizer, not enough fresh water. Possibly poor air circulation.
Shriveled Pseudobulbs – Not enough water, poorly potted, or root rot. See anything that may pertain to you? If you can isolate and identify with any of the above, then the corrective path should be obvious. At this point I recommend you going ‘diagnostic’.
Not Enough Light
How many times have you bought a plant, and the blooms were so beautiful and they lasted forever, but now you just can’t get it to flower anymore! Me personally, I believe lighting, or more appropriately, the lack of light may be the # 1 reason for the failure or success with orchid blooms. Lighting may seem like such a simple matter once understood, but to the novice or “newbie” as we call ourselves, it’s a concept that’s not easily presented in a very straightforward manner, or easily applied for that matter.
One problem many first time orchid growers encounter, such as I did, is totally misunderstanding the orchids and trying to grow them to our own concept of orchids in terms of light. To the first time orchid grower I say, “Don’t grow it like you think an orchid should be grown.” This sounds weird, but all too many believe that these plants should be grown in dark, hot, rain forest-like conditions. I know I killed my first few orchids thinking this way.
My success has been to grow with the greatest amount of light possible, without burning the plant, and trying to honor the plants temperature restraints without stressing the plant. How does the first-timer know how much light to provide if they’ve never done so before? This is where it gets really tough.
There are a few helpful keys, but not at all fail-safe. First, suggesting where to grow the plant is helpful. I like to recommend a location that is supplied with light from dual directions, i.e. southwest or southeast windows. I’m also honest, if someone only has northern exposure…their chance for re-blooming the plant is pretty low and I tell them so. Of equal importance, that well-lit, cozy little spot that worked so well during the colder months is considerably less effective during the warmer months. The sun is simply too high in the sky; much less light enters during this time, leaving higher-light orchids a little on the deprived side and less likely to re-bloom. During this temporary “shade” period, I would recommend growing the higher-light demanding plants outside, particularly the cymbidiums, cattleyas, vandaceous, and oncidium, among others.
Another common conception is that the color of the leaves will reflect whether or not the plant is getting the proper lighting, and of course, for the most part, this is true. The problem here is that experienced growers know what to look for in terms of the various shades of green for each genera. The first-time orchid grower probably has no idea as to what is right or wrong, and the learning process takes a while. If you don’t get it right the first six months, you will lose a flowering period. Very frustrating, and the world loses another orchid grower! So grow with the greatest amount of light possible, without burning the plant, and you will be pleasantly rewarded year after year.
Growing Orchid Flowers
Orchids belong to the most diverse family of plants known to man. There are over 880 genera, 28,000 species and well over 300,000 registered cultivars currently documented. These numbers only begin to tell the true story behind the evolutionary success of modern day orchids. Orchids are the most rapidly (genetically) changing group of plants on earth and more new species have been discovered over the last few thousand years than any other plant group known.
Orchids are also one of the most adaptable plant groups on earth. Some Australian orchids grow entirely underground, and many tropical jungle orchids grow in the upper branches of trees. Tundra, rainforest, mountain, grassy plain, desert and swamp environments contain numerous orchid species.
Orchids produce seed pods with literally hundreds of thousands of seed that are released and scattered by the wind. Orchid seeds must establish a symbiotic relationship with a special fungus to survive its first year of life. The fungi gathers water and minerals for itself and the seedling, and the seedling shares its sugars from photosynthesis with the fungus. Only one or two orchid seeds will ever germinate and survive on that perfect crevice or depression that is both moist and has the fungus present. Even then, its chances to survive in the wild long enough to bloom are slim.
To avoid this problem, greenhouse growers sow orchid seeds on moist, sugar-rich, sterile agar, or they cut out growing clumps of orchid cells and place them on the agar. These techniques allow many hundreds of orchid plants to survive to maturity. New and improved hybrids can be mass produced rapidly. This is important as orchids are very slow growing. Many orchids take five to seven years to mature to flowering. You can see why breeding three or four orchid generations could span a person’s lifetime just to get one new hybrid propagated sufficiently for sale.
Classification
All orchids belong to the Orchid Family, Orchidaceae (or-Kid-ACE-ee-ee). Orchids are divided into two basic growth types: monopodial and sympodial. Monopodial orchids have a central stem which grows continuously from the tip. Flowers are produced from the stem between the leaves, usually alternately from side to side. Phalaenopsis orchids are a good example. Sympodial orchids, such as cattleyas, laelias and paphiopedilums, possess a rhizome which sends out a shoot. This develops into a stem and leaves and eventually produces flowers. In time, from the base of this growth, a new shoot develops and so on in a continuous cycle. The buds are often, though not always, protected by a sheath.
The mid section of stems of sympodial orchids are often expanded into water-storage organs called pseudobulbs. These vary greatly in size and shape, ranging from tall and pencil-thin to bulbous and onion-like. The leaves vary too, some being soft and folded like a fan, others thick and leathery. The roots of epiphytic orchids have an outer layer or corky cells called velamen, which protects the thin, living cortex within. These adaptations allow orchids to absorb water and nutrients rapidly from raindrops, but protect roots, stems and leaves from water loss during dry periods. Most orchids are adapted to conserve water and should be cared for as such.
Orchid Cultural Requirements
Growing Medium
There are many different types of orchid potting medium used in orchid culture. The overall consideration is to provide structural support for the orchid roots, but also to provide lots of air spaces between medium particles. Many orchid plants are grown in osmunda fiber. This fiber comes from the roots of the Osmunda fern that is native to Australia and the Pacific. The tough, wiry fibers break down very slowly and is an ideal potting medium. Fresh pine bark is also a popular medium but is usually mixed with other amendments before use. Both materials are sometimes mixed with peat and perlite or vermiculite. Some orchids are even grown in pebbles mixed with bark. Most orchid roots are adapted to being exposed to air and harsh conditions, but cannot tolerate being wet for more than a day or two.
Orchids grow slowly compared to houseplants. However, most orchids need to be repotted about once every two years. To pot an orchid, the pot is filled about two-thirds with orchid potting medium, then the plant is set in the pot with its roots spread out. The growing tip either centered (monopodials) or placed two fingers from the pot rim (sympodial). Then additional media is packed tightly around the plant to hold it in place. You should be able to turn the pot upside down without the orchid or medium falling out. Practice will insure successful repotting. When the plant outgrows the pot by extending the new shoots over the edge, usually about every two years, it is time to repot.
Light
The ideal place in the home for growing orchids is a bright window, free from drafts, where your plants receive indirect sunlight both morning and afternoon. (A south window is best.) In winter, give orchids all the light possible. Light intensity should be between 1500 and 2000 foot candles the equivalent to a bright south-facing window. With extra large windows or especially intense sunlight, the light may be adjusted downward by moving plants 18 to 36 inches from the window. Plants in the home require a greater light intensity because they receive light from only one direction, while in a greenhouse they receive light from many sides.
Many orchids can be grown in a greenhouse or outdoors. All will require partial shade. Therefore, it is best to shade the section of the greenhouse you intend using or else grow them in an area that you have already shaded for foliage plants or African violets. Dendrobium Oncidium and Vanda will grow best in 20-30% of normal outdoor light, whereas Phalaenopsis-type orchids require only 10- 15 % of normal light.
Artificial Light
If you have neither a greenhouse nor the proper windowsill conditions, fluorescent lighting provides good results. You can grow and flower many types of orchids in the darkest basement or shadiest apartment with the addition of just one shop light. Most orchid hobbyists find having at least four 36″ or 48″ fluorescent tubes provides excellent light levels. Each group of orchids (primarily those with low to medium light requirements) will need a minimum of two forty-watt fluorescent light tubes hung six inches above the plants.
Keep lights on for a minimum of 12 hours per day in order to provide the minimal amount of light necessary for proper growth and flowering. If you are able to place your fluorescent light setup near a sunny window, your orchid flowering chances will increase. The best type of fluorescent tubes seem to be those designed specifically for plants.
Humidity
Potted orchid plants may be set on decorative pebbles in a water-filled tray, saucer, or other container. Evaporation of water from pebbles provides humidity. Pebbles also make the growing area more attractive, while assuring good drainage. Mist your plants with distilled water because tap water can lead to salt deposits on the leaves. A plant which is kept soaking wet invites attack by bacteria and fungal diseases. If you are able to enclose an area like a greenhouse, you will find it easier to maintain a proper humidity.
Temperature
Orchids are not as delicate and temperature sensitive plants as most people think. Most will adapt readily to conditions offered by any home or greenhouse. For growing purposes, we group orchids into three temperature classes:
The medium temperature class is represented by many Cattleyas, Epidendrums, Oncidiums, and Laelias, and most other commercially available orchids. The ideal minimum temperature is 60 degrees F nights and high 70s during the days. An occasional deviation will have no harmful effect. This group will do very well with the air, temperature, and light facilities found in the average home.
The cool class includes Cymbidiums, Cypripediums, Odontoglossums and Miltonias, and should be grown 5 degrees to 10 degrees F cooler than the medium class. These plants also require high light, so imagine cool, sunny October mornings as an example of the light and temperature that this class needs.
Warm class orchids are represented by Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilums, Vandas, Rhynchostylus and Dendrohiums. These plants should be grown 5 degrees F warmer than those in the Medium Class. They do well in high humidity and can be grown outdoors in Georgia from late spring to early fall if shaded and protected from rain. Never expose orchids of this class to less than 45 degrees F.
During cold, freezing night temperatures, all orchid plants should be moved away from the window to provide a protective airspace against freezing. Air temperature can be 15 to 20 degrees F cooler near the windows than the room temperature.
Watering
Watering is the most important factor in orchid culture. A good rule of thumb is to water whenever the medium (osmunda fiber or bark mix) is dry. If you grow the plants in pots suspended in the air, they will dry out more rapidly than bench grown plants and will need watering more frequently. Orchids potted in bark require more frequent waterings than those in most other potting media, just as plants in clay pots require more frequent watering than those in plastic pots. Orchids may be grouped into three categories according to their moisture requirements.
Low Water Use. Cattleyas, Laeliocattleyas, Brassolaeliocattleyas, Oncidiums, Miltonias, and Odontoglossums are ephiphytes or “air rooted” orchids, with built-in “water tanks” or pseudobulbs. They should be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings so air can circulate between the epiphytic roots. Water every five days or so. In the heat of mid-summer, water may be needed every three or four days. During the short, cool days of winter, increase the time between waterings to 10 to 14 days. If you do err in watering, make sure it is on the dry side.
Moderate Water Use. Phalaenopsis, while also epiphytic are monopodial and do not have built-in tanks for water storage, but store some water in their leaves. They require watering similiar to ordinary house plants, but more frequent waterings than orchids with pseudobulbs. Water enough to keep the potting medium from becoming dry for more than a day or two.
High Water Use. Paphiopedilums and Haemeria orchids are semi-terrestrials or terrestrials (meaning “earth-rooted”). Unlike the preceding groups, they do not mind “wet feet.” They like an abundance of moisture and the soil can remain damp for many days without any negative effects. Many terrestrial orchids are potted in peat based media which will naturally hold more water than the bark mixes.
Outdoor Conditions. Cymhidiums and many other orchids, such as cattleyas, can be grown outdoors during frost-free months in Georgia. They also like an abundance of moisture – but with good drainage and plentiful root aeration. However, do not plant tropical /greenhouse orchids outdoors in your garden soil. The soils are too dense to allow the roots to survive.
Fertilization
For best results, fertilize orchids with soluble plant food. When fertilizing plants growing in osmunda, bark or peat/bark mixes, use a complete liquid fertilizer with a 20-20-20 analysis, or a 30-10-10 orchid-special fertilizer. Don’t fertilize more than once a month. Apply the fertilizer in place of a normal water application. It is always best to use fertilizer at 1/2 the recommended rate. Orchids are adapted to environments where nutritional levels of the soil or bark are very low. More orchids are killed because of over-fertilization and over-watering than by any other cause.
Ventilation
In greenhouses, a small fan should be run continuously to circulate the air. A window left ajar in all but the coldest of weather may also be adequate to provide proper ventilation indoors. Airconditioning may harm orchids because the air is much too cold coming out of the unit. Keep orchid plants out of cold drafts and away from heating vents.
Orchid Pests and Diseases
Orchids have few insect pests or diseases if properly cared for. It is important to have a problem identified before attempting control. Take a sample to your county Extension agent and follow recommended treatments suggested. Many disease prevention tips are provided in an orchid disease guide published by the American Orchid Society. Wiping leaves with a warm, soapy, wet cloth is sufficient to eradicate insects like mealy bugs if you have but a few plants in the house. Be careful because many insecticides can damage your orchids. Read the label to see if the pesticide can be safely used on orchids specifically. If you have questions, ask your county Extension agent.
Orchids for Hobby Growers
One of the most frequently asked Questions from the hobby grower is, “What type or variety of orchid should I grow?” Usually when you mention the word “orchid” most people immediately think of the purple-flowered Cattleyas, and rightly so as they have long been the most popular in the trade. However, the genus Cattleya contains a mere 50 species of the 28,000 known. Many, many other orchids do wonderfully in the home.
Hobby growers should try growing hybrids of Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, Dendrobium, Oncidium, Vanda and Epidendrum. Phalaenopsis orchids are excellent for beginners. They may produce up to 15 or more flowers per spike. The flowers measure up to four inches across. Flowers may remain open for six weeks or longer. Frequently when a spike is cut, a secondary spike will develop on the old stalk below the original flower head, thus extending the blooming season. Phalaenopsis plants are very easy to grow.
Dendrobium hybrids are some of the better corsage type orchids. Lavender or white flowers are borne in profusion on a well-grown plant and are long lasting. They are a prolific group in that offset plantlets are frequently produced on the cane. When each offiet has produced several aerial roots, it can be cut from the parent plant and will frequently flower after one year of growth.
Oncidiums, commonly, referred to as dancing girls, are also easy to grow. These dainty yellow and brown or white and brown flowers are suitable if used alone or in combination with other orchids. Large flowered Oncidium sdhacelatum – with their yellow and brown color combination can be made into a corsage. These hardy plants flower well even under adverse growing conditions.
Vandas are becoming popular among orchid growers. The wide range of colors which includes some fairly good blues and browns and long lived flowers has added greatly to their popularity. Vandas may grow to be very large plants, sometimes 10 to 12 feet high, but they grow very slowly. A plant two feet tall may be seven or eight years old. Vandas are often grown outdoors in hanging baskets during the summer months.
A tough group of orchids is the Epidendrums. Epidendrum hybrids are becoming popular plants.
These are undoubtedly one of the easiest orchids to grow and one of the most prolific groups. The tall, thin, reed-like growths constantly put forth new plantlets. It is relatively simple to take tip cuttings having a few aerial roots. Although the flowers are small, about one inch in size, they are produced in great profusion.
Paphiopedilums are one of the best orchid groups to grow under artificial lighting. There are many spectacular hybrids available, and quite a number of species. They are not fragrant, but have very interesting and colorful “lady slipper” shaped flowers. Due to import regulations and conservation considerations, we recommend you grow only orchid hybrids so as not to promote the collecting of species from the wild.
For more information on orchid plant care and disease control, contact the American Orchid Society, Membership Services Department, 6000 South Olive Ave, West Palm Beach, Fl. 33405-9974.
Plant Care Orchid
At this time of year, many people start hungering for the fresh colours and scents of the great outdoors. If you’re tired of the usual narcissus that you’ve had blooming since Christmas, it may be time to try your hand at growing orchids indoors. Follow our advice for successful orchid growing.
plant care orchid
Orchids have a reputation for being difficult to cultivate, but with a little knowledge and by following our care advice tips, you’ll find you can keep one alive fairly easily, as long as you give the plant what it wants and needs. And you don’t need a privately-endowed trust fund for the plants, either. Today, you can buy orchids at many discount home or gardening stores for not much more than other flowering houseplants.
Not only are these flowers beautiful, coming in a great variety of colours, shapes and scents, but the plants themselves seem otherworldly. Most people wonder, “How can I possibly care and grow this plant in a pot, when in nature it grows hanging off a tree branch?”
plant care orchid
The reason you can, is that most popular cultivated orchids are epiphytes, or air plants, which most often grow on trees or the surfaces of rocks. Their roots are usually exposed to air and get nutrients chiefly when it rains. As a result, these varieties are not grown in soil: they should be grown in pots full of tree bark, crumbled charcoal, or even pebbles. (If you have a humid greenhouse, you can grow them attached to wood or cork plaques, but don’t try this in your windowsill just yet!).
While phalaenopsis don’t need lots of heat, they do need a level of humidity that isn’t found in most homes outside of a rainforest. To supplement the humidity in your home, you can use a room humidifier, or a smaller humidifier that will just keep the area around the plants moist. Also, many indoor growers keep their orchids above a “humidity tray” instead of using saucers under the pots. The runoff from watering your plants goes into the tray and evaporates, providing extra humidity.
Try to keep your phalaenopsis watered. Don’t let the potting medium dry out completely, but water the plant whenever the medium gets to the point of being only slightly damp. That said, one of the most common ways of killing an orchid is by overwatering. To prevent this, check the weight of the pot every day. Right after you water, the pot should be heavy; when dry, the pot will be light. Note how long it takes for the pot to become dry and then water every few days as necessary. Small pots will dry out faster than larger ones. Since most home windowsills are not very humid, you should use plastic pots, which help retain moisture.
Most commercial orchid potting medium is made of tree bark mixed with charcoal and perlite chunks. If it turns out you suffer from the common inclination to overwater, you should use a coarser grade of mix when you re-pot. Overwatering will eventually kill your plant, since the roots will be robbed of the air they need.
Use houseplant food with a “balanced” ratio of 18 nitrogen, 18 phosphorous and 18 potassium, or any similar formula. Only use about ½ to ¼ the amount per gallon that is recommended on the package, since orchids don’t need as much of this food as other plants who are fed with this 18-18-18 mix.
If just a lone orchid sitting in the window isn’t decorative enough for you, put the pot in a pretty cachepot or jardinière to add visual interest. Always use a waterproof container! And make sure to put at least an inch of pebbles in the bottom so the plant won’t sit in water. (Better yet, take the plant and pot out of the decorative container when you water, and put it back after it has drained.)
Orchids grow well with other houseplants. Also, grouping plants attractively in the window has an unexpected benefit: extra humidity for the orchids!
Since orchids flower in a variety of colours, you’re sure to find a variety you can grow with a bloom that can complement the other accessories in your home.
Not only are orchids a lovely way to add colour to your home, but they also have a fascinating history. Starting about 4,000 years ago, the Chinese word for orchids–“lan”– appeared in written texts about herbal medicine. Confucius wrote about orchids, comparing the pleasure of seeing good friends to entering a room full of fragrant orchids. Meanwhile, in
Europe native terrestrial orchids were used as aphrodisiacs.
The 19th century European frenzy of exploration, combined with the growing Western interest in tropical orchids, drove orchid prices up and drove many people to explore the tropics to collect more of the exotic plants. Unfortunately, this collecting spree led to considerable orchid habitat destruction, and many species were probably lost forever as a result. Today, many orchidists – including the American Orchid Society – advocate the purchase of artificially propagated orchids, either meristem clones or seedlings, which will help discourage the collecting of orchid species at home and abroad.
The family of orchids is the largest plant family, with a great deal of variety as well, from miniatures such as Mystacidium caffrum to the 20-foot-tall Renanthera storei. Some orchids have tiny blooms smaller than a pinhead; others are bigger than an Easter lily. Some orchids bloom continuously, others bloom just once a year. Orchids are beautiful, interesting plants that are sure to enrich your life and bring a little tropical warmth into your winter home.
When Europeans first began cultivating orchids, they thought that because orchids were native to hot, humid climates, they had to have round-the-clock heat and humidity. In reality, like many other popular orchids, phalaenopsis are rather ideally suited to a bright window in a home in a temperate climate; they like daytime temperatures of about 80 degrees F, and night time temperatures of about 60 degrees. It’s the change in temperature that’s crucial for successfully growing most orchids; if there isn’t enough of a temperature drop at night, the orchids may not bloom.
Plant Care Orchid
Phalaenopsis orchids – care for your moth orchid phalaenopsis orchids – care for your moth orchid people view an orchid as some sort of exotic, and difficult to grow plant. Orchid plant care guide: free online orchid growing information & tips orchid plant care is not that tedious, if you happen to have determination and patience it takes months for an orchid plant to have blooming flowers people have a common. Plant care orchid orchid care can often be easy, especially when the growing orchid is the coconut orchid plant. Oscommerce this is your one-stop online orchid guide, with brief descriptions and links to a series of suite101 articles on the basics of orchid cultivation. Orchid care expert learn the secrets of orchid plant care orchid plant care – greenhouse tips many people enjoy the experience of growing orchids in their yards however, you need to keep in mind that orchid plant care is quite.
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Exotic Flower Guide
Exotic Flower Guide
Using indoor artificial light allows the home gardener to extend the gardening zone to a much higher one than might be possible in their particular outdoor growing situation. There has been a big trend in gardening circles to push the envelope of gardening zones by introducing tropical plants into outdoor gardening situations. It is also easy to grow exotic flowers indoors, when you have the help of great lighting that is available through the use of grow lights using a hydroponic digital ballast.
exotic flower guide
One type of exotic flower that is readily available for purchase is the orchid. This is a plant that loves the warm weather that is typically found in its native Philippines, India and southeast Asia. Orchids do not like direct sun, but instead prefer bright and indirect lighting. It performs well under fluorescent light. Consistent watering and appropriate air circulation, along with proper lighting, is needed to succeed with indoor orchids.
Another beautiful tropical plant you might wish to try growing indoors is the tropical hibiscus. This plant will get fairly tall, around five feet, and will have lovely three to six-inch diameter blooms. However, the only way this plant is going to thrive indoors is with a proper grow light. The light should be placed at five feet above the floor, and then you set your plants underneath. Fluorescent grow lamps work very well and provide the correct light spectrums required by indoor hibiscus.
Ginger is a super plant to try growing indoors. If given good lighting and protection from the cold it will thrive very nicely indoors. The spiky, vibrant flowers come in pink and red.
A Hawaiian plant that is lovely when grown indoors in a container is the Zebra Costus. The zebra’ name comes from the striped black and white two to four-foot canes that the plant produces, and it has a beautiful orange-hued flower.
You might want to try a flowering vine indoors. A Passion Flower could be just the plant you were looking for. It likes indoor temperatures ranging from the mid-fifties to the mid-sixties, and it enjoys a good quantity of indirect light. It also needs good air circulation to thrive indoors. The flowers are a purple/blue shade, and the vine also produces edible fruit after it flowers.
If you are looking for a bright spot of floral color indoors, then you might enjoy growing a bromeliad. Because they do not have an extensive root system, they can thrive in a fairly small pot, and prefer plenty of water but good drainage so the roots don’t sit in water.
All of these plants require appropriate lighting, such as would be found with HID lights used with either electronic ballasts or digital ballasts of the galaxy digital ballast variety .
Exotic Flower Guide
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