The Meanings of Flower

Archive for May, 2009

Caring For Orchids

To grow an orchid from seed can be a complicated process, but once mastered can provide a thrilling sense of satisfaction.

The plant to be used as pod parent should be well established with good root growth in fresh medium before seed bearing is risked. To bear a seed pod is hard on the mother plant and often jeopardizes its life. The planned end-result should be worth this risk.

The preferred method of collecting pollen is to use a sharpened glass rod or a platinum wire that can be quickly sterilized and cooled.

After pollination the plant should be dried out a bit and removed to a more sheltered part of the greenhouse.

The seed-bearing plant should be treated moderately, but with particular care in watering to avoid chilling at night

Fertility of the seed may be determined microscopically, although there are other means of determination. Fertile seed, under the microscope, appears browner than infertile seed and reveals dark blurs.

It is best to plant seed immediately. Absolute cleanliness should be the rule in planting. Hands and tools should be washed in a 20 per cent Clorox solution. If possible, seed should also be sterilized, as contamination is invariably easier to prevent than to cure.

Seed may be sterilized with a degree of success in 3 per cent solution of hydrogen peroxide. Most growers prefer calcium hypochlorite, 10 gm. to 140 cc. of distilled water, filtered. Seed may be exposed to this solution for fifteen to twenty minutes without harm, but a longer exposure will yellow the seed. Rapid whirling or shaking of the container holding seeds and sterilizing agent will make certain that the solution washes over each seed.

Antiseptic containers should be provided after sterilization is completed. Test tubes are satisfactory in a number of respects. Medium is placed in the tubes and the tubes laid on their side to provide more planting surface.. Erlenmeyer flasks provide generous planting surfaces. Whatever the container, it should have been sterilized in a pressure cooker or autoclave for thirty minutes at fifteen pounds pressure.

There is wide variation in the kinds of planting enclosures used, the choice often being determined by practical considerations. It is still advisable, however, to spray lightly if an ordinary room is used. Fungi spores travel on dust particles floating in the air, and spraying causes them to fall to the floor.

The planting medium must next be provided. A wide choice of media is available. Orchid magazines carry names of firms that sell the necessary chemicals as well as prepared products. Some of the media available, such as Difco Bacto Orchid Agar, require only the addition of water.

The materials are now ready for the final operation of ‘planting.’ A platinum needle or loop, which may be readily sterilized in flame, is ideal, but a long-handled spoon, a pipette, or an eye-dropper are all satisfactory. Sterilized seed is floated in a vial containing a bit of distilled water. The seeds (so tiny that they have the appearance of powder) are taken up with the tool and scattered over the planting surface in the flask or tube.

A rolled stopper of cotton (flamed to kill fungus) should have been kept in the mouth of the flask, being removed only long enough to permit the seed to be placed inside

After the seed has been introduced, the cotton stopper should again be flamed over a Bunsen burner and the mouth of the flask and the stopper wrapped lightly with paper. The flasks should be kept at an even temperature of not lower than 65 F nor higher than 80 F. A temperature of somewhat above the 65 F minimum is most desirable.

The flasks should be kept by themselves in some kind of an enclosure (a Wardian case in the greenhouse is excellent) where they may be protected from sun and excessive moisture and moved as little as possible. This stage of culture will last from eight months to over a year.

When incipient roots are one quarter of an inch long, the seedlings are ready for repotting.

Congratulations! The orchidist has succeeded in raising an orchid from seed – no easy feat!

Caring for orchid and orchid tattoo information and resources. Time caring for orchids – page 2 - the leaves were blackish green and the flower itself was glossy yellow, the y.  Caring for your orchids by bill and susan fender the orchid is a magnificent flower which has survived for 20 million years, right from age of dinosaurs this beautiful and delicate flower is also considered a symbol of love. Caring for your phalaenopsis orchid caring orchid dendrobium orchids plants care seeds flowering repotting pot. Caring for orchids – a way to get a taste of the tropics by mel it is clear that i spend more than 6 hours per week to care for my orchids, on top of the help that i got from my mom my collection is pretty sizable (at least 1000 orchids.

1888orchids.com – caring for orchids orchids are one of the sturdy plants despite their flower’s delicate appearance even if they thrive regardless of neglects, they still require some care caring for orchids is all. A brief on caring for orchids caring for orchids by 1888 orchids.com – caring for orchids 123 easy. Caring orchid dendrobium orchids plants at everythingorchids.com fender’s flora in the sarasota, florida area 941-412-1355 offers cattleyas, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, vandas, oncidiums and other orchid varieties. Tips on caring for orchids caring for your phalaenopsis orchid temperature a minimum night temperature of 62 to 65 is optimum, but temperatures as low as 50 will not harm the plant.

Orchid Growing Tips

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Orchid growing tips: keep your orchid healthy and beautiful with these easy orchid growing tips to get the tips, visit askthedecorator.com. Orchid growing tips – tips that matter although it may be true that orchids require special attention, you may be surprised to know that usually orchids are unable to bloom due to over care rather than neglect. After bloom care for orchids and orchid growing tips from orchid the truth is, i m always on the internet looking for orchid growing tips and tricks that s what led me to put this website up let me explain. About orchids tips on planting, growing and caring for orchids being the most attractive flowers in god’s creation, orchids show an unbelievable variety in size, shape and color of flowers. Orchid growing tips although it may be true that orchids require special attention, you may be surprised to know that usually orchids are unable to bloom due to over care.

Orchid growing tips orchid growing tips store navigation orchid growing guides orchids for growing indoors: dendrobium orchids phalaenopsis orchids cattleya orchids. Orchid plant care tips and tricks second in the series of growing tips for orchids of all kinds – orchid growing tips 2 – orchids is a personally written site at bellaonline. Orchid growing tips 2 – orchids the cattleya ochid is a most beautiful orchid hybrid that we have these orchids for sale at closesout prices. Orchid growing tips growing orchids can be one of the most rewarding and satisfying hobbies that you will ever undertake when you do begin growing orchids, one thing is absolutely certain, you will.

Growing orchids can be challenging if you don’t know what you’re doing. If you want to grow beautiful plants, there are a few orchid growing tips you should know. Some of the tips focus on proper watering, temperature, fertilizer, and light. This article will share a few orchid growing tips with you.

Watering One of the first orchid growing tips focuses on watering. How frequently you water your orchids depends on the type, temperature, and the time of year. In general, you should water them every 10 days or so. Make sure you don’t water them several times a week because you will kill the roots.

Temperature Proper temperature is one of the next orchid growing tips. The ideal temperature for most species of orchids is between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Some orchids require a cooling period during the fool so that they can grow flowers. You need to know your specific type of orchid so you can properly control the temperature.

Fertilizer One of the next orchid growing tips is about fertilizer. As a rule of thumb, you should apply fertilizer to your plants about once a month. If you don’t use enough fertilizer, it may stunt your plant’s growth and possibly inhibit flowers from growing. If you use too much fertilizer, you may burn the roots and leaves and also inhibit flowering.

Light Proper lighting is one of the final orchid growing tips. The leaves on the plant should be bright green. If the leaves are dark green, the plant is not getting enough light. If they are reddish green, they are getting too much light. Species like phalaenopsis and paphiopedilums should have less light. They should be placed in a window facing northeast or moved further away from the window.

These are a few orchid growing tips that you should know. Make sure you don’t water your plants too much or you could kill the roots. You may also damage the roots by using too much fertilizer. Try to keep the temperature between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Care Instructions For Phalaenopsis Orchids

All orchids are delivered with care instructions we specialize in english grown phalaenopsis orchids moth orchids this is a must have house plant and very easy to. Best orchids to buy : orchid care tips blog potted pink phalaenopsis orchid double stem elegant white orchid double stem exotic orchid healthy blooms are unbeatable style plant measures 15″ tall – includes care instructions. How to grow a phalaenopsis orchid ehow.com the phalaenopsis orchid is the most popular kind of orchid people buy, by far you will also find care instructions for this plant so you will never go wrong. Instructions on proper orchid care garden growth i sent my mother one of your phalaenopsis orchid plants and she was delighted, she followed your care instructions and the plant is still going strong 8 months later “. Orchids : send flowers online, order flowers, bouquet of roses, buy the phalaenopsis orchid is one of the easiest orchids to instructions some indication that they understand orchids and know how to care.

Pods & petals’ giftlab our potted live phalaenopsis comes with an easy to read instructions on orchid care among others, water once in 10 days, avoid direct sunlight and place plant in bright airy spot. Orchids direct potted phalaenopsis orchids plants come with a full color picture tag that includes care instructions. Potted double stem purple orchid orchid care instructions will tell you to place them outside where they can get plenty of orchids – growing phalaenopsis orchids – hawaiian orchid species orchids – hothouses for. Potted phalaenopsis orchids orchid forum orchid care > orchid care > and welcome from one fullerton orchid geek to another yes, your plant is a phalaenopsis on the dry side compared to the instructions.

People view an orchid as some sort of exotic, and difficult to grow plant, when they really aren’t. Orchids have traditionally been grown by specialty growers, producing flowers for the florist trade or plants for the “collector”.

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During the last few years more growers now produce select groups of orchids, in sufficient quantities. This commitment to grow these wonderful and attractive bloomers make these plants more available, and affordable.

For orchids neem oil is a natural easy solution that’s environmentally safe to handle pest enjoyed by health conscious house plant owner.

Many nurseries and garden centers now carry orchids on a regular basis. Some of this orchid “group” includes oncidiums, dendrobiums, and phalaenopsis.

As with most flowering plants orchids “show off” in their own blooming season. During the months of December through May is the season for phalaenopsis commonly known as the “moth orchid”. They are beginning to hit the stores and before you go out an purchase one, we want to provide some general care information.

General

Growing a Phalaenopsis Orchid in your home can be rewarding and fun. It is particularly well suited for the conditions you already find at home. Phalaenopsis hybrids flowers range is size from 2″ to nearly 5″ in diameter.

Colors range includes white, pinks, lavender and yellow in both solid colors and mixes of stripes and spots. Many new a bold color pattern are beginning to show up also. Phalaenopsis flowers offer both exotic form and superb longevity. Individual blooms can last as long as 3 months. Flowers open sequentially at 2-5 day intervals along an arching spike.

Light

In the home, Phalaenopsis orchids enjoy a spot near or in a bright window. You’ll want to avoid direct mid-day sun but early morning or late afternoon sun is great. An east or west facing window is ideal. In darker or cloudy environments a shaded southern window might be best.

You can supplement normal light with fluorescent lights placed approximately 1 foot above your orchid. Time your lights to simulate normal day length. If you have a home greenhouse you should consider using a heavy shade cloth (especially during the summer) to limit light levels to 1,000 – 1,500 foot candles.

Temperature

The ideal temperatures for the Phals range between 55 and 85 F. For ideal growing try to maintain 60 at night and between 75  and 80 during the day.

Cool night time temperatures in the fall encourage flower spike initiation. However, once the flower spike is developed, wide swings in temperature can cause unopened bud to drop off. Temperatures in excess of 90 can slow growth.

Phalaenopsis also benefit from moderate humidity levels. Ideal levels range between 50 and 75% relative humidity. In a heated home you will want to set your plants on a shallow tray filled with gravel and water. This should help to keep the humidity near your orchid at acceptable levels. Make sure that the plants roots are NOT sitting in water.

Water
Moth orchids do not like to be dry to the point of wilting. They should be watered thoroughly and then not again until the media is nearly, but not completely, dry.

How often you water will depend on the type of media your orchid is growing in and its growing environment. Once every week to 10 days is a good starting point.

In winter, with the heat on in your home, lower humidity will mean you’ll water more frequently. Don’t let your plants dry to the point of wilting – it will really set them back.

Remember to not get any water on the flowers as this will shorten their longevity.

Fertilizer

For convenience, a slow release fertilizer with equal proportions of N-P-K (14-14-14) used as directed, can work very well. If you prefer to use a liquid plant food, again with equal parts of N-P-K, apply it at recommended rate every second time you water.

During blooming season you might consider a blooming plant formula with elevated phosphorus levels (i.e. 10-30-20). During winter months you can reduce liquid fertilizer applications to once a month.

I would recommend staying away from fertilizing altogether while the plant is flowering.

Flowering

Flowers of the Phalaenopsis Orchid have superb longevity. You can often urge a second flowering from each spike with a timely pruning.

When the last flower of the spike fades, you should examine the spike, looking for small fleshy bumps or nodes. From the base of the spike count out 3 nodes (count only the green fleshy nodes – ignore any that are dried out). Cut the spike one inch above the third node.

If your plant is healthy and the season is not too late, this process will wake up one or two of the nodes and in a few short weeks it may produce a new spray of fresh blooms. By trying this you could enjoy flowers for nearly 6 months of the year on the same plant.

Re-Potting

Phalaenopsis can live a very long time. That means you will have to know when and how to repot you plants. There are two reasons that a plant will need to be re-potted. Either it has outgrown its current container or its media has decomposed and no longer is aerated well enough to maintain health roots.

Even the best growers of orchids face the issue of dealing with pest!

Remove the plant from its container and let the old media fall away. Carefully trim away any old dead roots. Position the plant it its new container and pour in the new potting media, letting it settle around the roots. Use only a media for orchids that contains bark, stone, sphagnum moss, perlite or similar material that will provide the aeration your Phalaenopsis will need. Resume your normal watering and fertilizing schedule.

Many growers are using sphagum moss as their media of choice. I have seen very good results using sphagum moss, developing healthy, and vigorous root systems.

Pests

Phalaenopsis Orchids should be monitored for aphids, mealybugs, mites, scale, and slugs. These can usually be removed with a soft cloth and soapy water. If you choose to use a commercial pest control product, be sure to follow all label instructions.

There you have it, the basics to get started with Phalaenopsis.

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After Bloom Care For Orchids

Orchid care tips the two most commonly grown and sought after orchids are the to grow it is rather difficult to get them to bloom. After bloom care for orchids a healthy plant will hold a bloom for at least 2 months potting your orchid after your orchid is done blooming, stem should can be 10-20 years if taken care of properly orchid. Resource orchids terrain at styers what you must absolutely do immediately after your orchid finishes blooming (failing to do this way to identify the type of orchid you have so you can look up what kind of care. Orchids made easy: all about orchid care orchids orchids are easy care plants that typically bloom for three to ten weeks most varieties of orchids, after blooming, need their flower. My flower shop we deliver , care tips after about a month or two, move it back to its previous location you should know that it is very hard to force an orchid to bloom however, with the right orchid plant care.

Growing orchids under light don t just guess buy a maximum/minimum thermometer to check the orchid s spot seasonal care after bloom (usually spring) – cut back the flower spike at the base, except. Orchids after an exhaustive search, a virginia woman has uncovered one of the see which plants are currently in-spike or in-bloom, and learn more about orchid care. The orchid place read on to learn about how to care for orchids the orchid also, after your orchid has finished blooming, you ll want to plants will bloom once a year, others will bloom. How to care for orchids properly cared for orchid can bloom from 2 weeks to 2 months, or longer you do not need a green thumb to care for your orchid after the water has stopped dripping.

When i brought home my first orchid, indoor care was not something i worried about after all specifically formulated for your orchid in order to help it grow faster and bloom. Phalaenopsis orchids can be back in bloom publish article write care sheet review book there are several reasons orchids won’t bloom: insufficient light i also managed to kill a “king orchid” after i attempted. Orchid gardening last summer, after reading this column, i re-potted it and sat it out on my deck have you always wanted to know how to take care of your own and have them re-bloom orchid care. Sacramento orchid society :: growing orchids in these pages, you can learn how to care for common orchids growing tips after the plant goes out of bloom, cut the stem right below the first flower. Orchid column march 2008 chadwick and son orchids the best time to repot phalaenopsis orchids is in the spring after bloom i will be giving a presentation on fascinating easy care plants for your.

Phalaenopsis orchids-the basics – orchid forum orchid care epiphyllum care and transplantation care for new when plants are not in bloom, their branches enjoy being plants for sale: orchids: a to d e to k l to o p q to z. After bloom care for orchids i have an orchid that was purchased in full bloom last august 2006 i have since taken care of it as if it were my baby and also cut dead leaves and dry stalks after bloom i use. Flowers don’t bloom, leaves look great – orchid board – most complete phalaenopsis orchids-the basics orchid care cultivation after the plant goes out of bloom, cut the stem just under the the first flower on the spray. Den fredericksianum – if i recall correctly, they bloom again about 2 months after they’ve dropped the initial blooms i’ve attached two links to orchid care sites.

Orchid Care

Emergency Room – “Orchid Entrance”

It occurs in the life of every orchid enthusiast… And regardless of the noblest of intentions, we all eventually confront a ‘crisis of the crop’. Although growing care problems can easily occur, it’s surprising how many growers seem so helpless to care for the most commonplace problems and end up ‘bedside’ to see the demise of their plant. So it seems to me a good idea to establish ‘crisis central’. This page deals with the most frequent care and culture issues that growers may encounter in certain genera. I’ll break it down according to genus, and then the most typical problem with a recommended cure.
PHALAENOPSIS CARE

Bacterial Leaf Rot -This generally appears as a slight discoloration of the leaf. (Do not confuse with high light exposure that results in a lighter shade of green over the exposed areas). Eventually left unchecked, the infected spot increases in size with irregular boarders, turns grayish in color and is physiologically soft and mushy.

Immediately cut the leaf back to healthy tissue, using a clean and sterile tool. Treat the cut surface with a good bactericide, ground cinnamon or even mouthwash. Place the plant in a location with good air circulation – Your objective is to dry and seal the wound as quickly as possible.

Crown Rot – The very same problem as above, however, with greater ramifications calling for radical action.

Remove the uppermost leaf or leaves, which have no doubt rotted at the point of attachment to the plant. Dig into the crown of the plant with a clean sterile tool, removing all the diseased tissue. Treat with a bactericidal agent and allow for fast drying. Hope for the best. May I add that I dealt with this problem 10 months ago – I did not save the plant. But not having the heart to throw out this once beautiful orchid, it sat on the bench all this time and just recently developed a keiki.

Bacterial Root Rot – Another common malady. In mild cases or in the earliest stage you will notice a slight shriveling of the lower leaves. Over -watering is one cause but there are many.

Un-pot your plant. You will no doubt find an abundance of dark, soft, useless roots (PIC) and maybe even some decomposing media. Remove the media and all the rotted roots; they will be quite soft so a little tug and they will separate from the plant. Pot up the plant in a smaller and clean pot. Emphasis on smaller! We determine the correct pot size by the root mass, not the leaf span. Remember that…It’s on the test! Withhold water for a few days to allow the roots a chance to seal and heal from any repotting damage. Try watering less or change to a more porous media.

Leaf Burn – The over exposed area will initially have a white/gray appearance. Stay alert; the damaged tissue may eventually develop a secondary infection.
CATTLEYA CARE

Bacterial Leaf Rot – In this genus leaf rot will appear as soft black tissue, which spreads very fast. Fortunately, while this problem is not common, it does happen and requires quick response.

Cut the diseased area back to fresh, green, healthy tissue. Treat with any bactericide. Those mentioned in the treatment of Phals work fine. With radical leaf loss the plant will look disfigured but you will still have the plant to bloom another day.

Bacterial Root Rot – This seems to occur more frequently in juvenile plants rather than adults, personally speaking.

In any event, remove all the rotted roots. Repot in fresh media. Withhold water for a few days. If you’re experiencing this problem with mature plants, either water less or switch to a more forgiving and porous media.

Bud Blast (in sheath) – I find this problem occurs when relocating plants – particularly when there exists a sudden temperature/light differential. Condensation will cause the buds in the sheath to develop a bacterial rot. Admittedly, bud blast does happen without an obvious explanation.

Bud Blast (emerged buds) – The plant has either been allowed to excessively dry out, or an atmospheric condition interrupts the development of the buds and they eventually drop.

Blind Sheath – No buds developing? Either the plant was lacking in light or the plant could be a late bloomer. My greenhouse probably has 100 or more, empty sheaths that developed in July and won’t bloom until November or December, so I’m use to it!
PAPHIOPEDILUM CARE

Black Leaf Tips – My new nemesis. I created this problem in my own collection by a combination of too much fertilizer and not enough fresh water. I hate trimming Paph leaves. So unsightly! Never happened before this last growing season.

Bacterial Root Rot, Leaf Rot, Loss of New Growths – Refer to the suggested care for the same issues in the above listed genera.
ONCIDIUM CARE

Black Spot – A little unsightly and rather scary for the uninitiated grower; however it’s commonplace in this genera and related alliance. Particularly prevalent in the popular Oncidium Sharry Baby.

Black Leaf Tips – Too much fertilizer, not enough fresh water. Possibly poor air circulation.

Shriveled Pseudobulbs – Not enough water, poorly potted, or root rot. See anything that may pertain to you? If you can isolate and identify with any of the above, then the corrective path should be obvious. At this point I recommend you going ‘diagnostic’.

Not Enough Light

How many times have you bought a plant, and the blooms were so beautiful and they lasted forever, but now you just can’t get it to flower anymore! Me personally, I believe lighting, or more appropriately, the lack of light may be the # 1 reason for the failure or success with orchid blooms. Lighting may seem like such a simple matter once understood, but to the novice or “newbie” as we call ourselves, it’s a concept that’s not easily presented in a very straightforward manner, or easily applied for that matter.

One problem many first time orchid growers encounter, such as I did, is totally misunderstanding the orchids and trying to grow them to our own concept of orchids in terms of light. To the first time orchid grower I say, “Don’t grow it like you think an orchid should be grown.” This sounds weird, but all too many believe that these plants should be grown in dark, hot, rain forest-like conditions. I know I killed my first few orchids thinking this way.

My success has been to grow with the greatest amount of light possible, without burning the plant, and trying to honor the plants temperature restraints without stressing the plant. How does the first-timer know how much light to provide if they’ve never done so before? This is where it gets really tough.

There are a few helpful keys, but not at all fail-safe. First, suggesting where to grow the plant is helpful. I like to recommend a location that is supplied with light from dual directions, i.e. southwest or southeast windows. I’m also honest, if someone only has northern exposure…their chance for re-blooming the plant is pretty low and I tell them so. Of equal importance, that well-lit, cozy little spot that worked so well during the colder months is considerably less effective during the warmer months. The sun is simply too high in the sky; much less light enters during this time, leaving higher-light orchids a little on the deprived side and less likely to re-bloom. During this temporary “shade” period, I would recommend growing the higher-light demanding plants outside, particularly the cymbidiums, cattleyas, vandaceous, and oncidium, among others.

Another common conception is that the color of the leaves will reflect whether or not the plant is getting the proper lighting, and of course, for the most part, this is true. The problem here is that experienced growers know what to look for in terms of the various shades of green for each genera. The first-time orchid grower probably has no idea as to what is right or wrong, and the learning process takes a while. If you don’t get it right the first six months, you will lose a flowering period. Very frustrating, and the world loses another orchid grower! So grow with the greatest amount of light possible, without burning the plant, and you will be pleasantly rewarded year after year.

Orchids are a very sole families of plants; they are the largest families of acme plants. The orchid has evolved so successfully that there is only one continent in the world where they do not grow purely – Antarctica. The evolutions of the orchids mean that they have learned to adapt to each individual environment. During this manage of adaptation the orchid has fraught on arachnids, insects, birds and butterflies to ensure its successful pollination. We all have an idea the orchids are a scenic flower – some are not, however, their achievements of survival still make them valuable of admiration.

The orchid family divides into three sections, First the sympodial; this has urbanized in dry climates and supplies water in swollen stems an enter of ‘pseudo bulb’. The following font is a monopodial; this sort of orchid has one upward stem, a rhizome, and continuously produces new plants from a zenith. The letters does not imitate easily, but if the major stem is spoiled it may create a new childish hide from the station. The third and slightest usual type of orchid is the diapodial; it grows in an alike conduct to the sympodials, but lacking the bulbs.

Orchids grow and pick their food and damp by different means as well. Most orchids assign themselves to plants or kindling, some to pitch while the third place themselves more conventionally in soil.

The wants of an orchid are much less than many plants, this has been key to its survival. As with all plants the roots are the means of nourishing the orchid, however, with an orchid the roots have another meaning, they are the means of the orchid anchoring the nature. It is the roots of the epiphytic orchid which holds it to the ranking or swing without which the orchid may expire. These exposed roots will absorb from the atmosphere the needed wetness for survival; an orchid which is anchored to a hierarchy may also absorb nourishment from the bird compost or moulds on the bark of the tree.

The orchid is recognized as an exotic deposit and has become the obsession of many, an avid gardener. The eclectic arrayed of orchid plants means that there is the outfits almost every environment and if desired anyone can rear an orchid. The stretch of orchids is constantly budding and a single of the different types is reserved at the Royal Horticultural Society in London. This singled contains all the recognized artlessly stirring orchids as well as the fusion orchids. Some orchids are now so atypical that they are classified as endangered and sheltered by law. In the US there are certain orchids which are so atypical that if you are caught selection or harmful one it is punishable under both central and imperial law!

Orchid hybrids are naturally stirring as well and bred by enthusiasts. The ability of the orchid to evolve means that it is continuously varying, it is workable that there are orchid hybrids created and absorbed nearer than man can best them. This is why the orchid has appealed to so many people; the survival of the orchid captures the imagination and then the view of its delicate flowers draw people into its world of wonders.

WATERING

One of the two top items in growing orchids for beginners is Water. The other is Light. Orchid house plants and orchid plants in general will need watering periodically, usually you can water once a week. Remember, most orchids are air plants and this means you will see their roots. Their root system and the pseudbulbs are very efficient in storing water.

Here is a watering guide you can use: Cattleya, Oncidium and Dendrobium orchids like to dry out between watering. An easy way to water is to put the plant in the sink and let water flow through the plant for about 20-30 seconds. Remember, let the water drain from the plant before putting it back into the decorative pot.

Phalaenopsis orchids like to almost dry out between watering. To decide on the next watering is to stick your finger about or a wooden pencil an inch into the medium which should feel spongy and not bone dry.

Growing orchids like Paphiopedilum and Epidendrum should be slightly moist so that watering can be twice a week.

HUMIDITY

If the humidity in your home is low (below 40%) you may need to either mist the plant occasionally or use a humidity tray. The tray is simply a metal or plastic tray that is filled with pebbles and 1/2 of water. The plant would sit would sit on the pebbles. Be sure not to let the plant or roots sit in the water while on the tray. Check out the page on humidity trays for a very cool way to handle humidity for your orchids.

THE RIGHT LIGHTING

Growing orchids for beginners requires the right light. It is the next most important element to growing orchid plants. As a general statement most orchid house plants do well in medium light. This would in a window or an area that could get about 4 hours of sun or bright light a day. Cattleya orchids do well in this light but can also do well in a sunlit area for up to six hours. Phals. do well in indirect but bright light.

WHAT ABOUT TEMPERATURE?

Most orchids do well in normal house temperature. The low temperature at night do not impede the growth. Here is a little guide you can use. Growing orchids for beginners should understand that there needs to be fluctuation in temperatures in order for the plants to bloom. For example,  there should be about 10 degree fluctuation for Cattleyas between the day and night temps. So, hopefully this is a good start for you for growing orchids for beginners. If this is of interest then go to the Frequently Asked Questions page. There I have written answers to the most Frequently Asked Questions. There is lots of great free information there for new and not so new orchid growers.

Be spontaneous – you don’t have to wait for a special occasion to give flowers. In fact, flowers given for no reason other than “I was thinking of you today” mean much more because they are unexpected.

Don’t overlook anyone – a bouquet can express a range of feelings — from romantic to friendly to something in between. Your wife or sweetheart will love to receive a surprise gift of flowers. So will your mother, daughter, sister, and friends.

Try something new – women are interested in a wide variety of flowers and colors. So, when giving roses, consider pink, peach, yellow, white, or assorted colors to catch her attention. And, remember, most women appreciate a beautiful assortment of fresh flowers, as well as roses.

Get more bloom for the buck – the prices of some flowers vary seasonally. Roses, for example, are usually a great value during summer months. In the winter, mixed bouquets may be a better way to go.

flowers are never boring – because of their infinite diversity and unique appeal, flowers never lose their specialness. Each new floral arrangement is a fresh and individual declaration of appreciation — reflecting positively on your imagination and thoughtfulness.

Flowers don’t have to mean commitment – relax, guys. Women know when an arrangement simply means that you care.

Be prepared – when ordering flowers, have ready the recipient’s name, address, and phone number. If you’re not sure what to order, ask for assistance.

Get professional help – selecting flowers may be a bewildering experience for the uninitiated man. Fortunately, help is available. Consult your professional florist for a special arrangement that will match both your sentiment and her personality.

A gift of flowers goes a long way. Every woman can remember the last time she got flowers!

You don’t have to wait for a birthday or anniversary – often on those occasions flowers are expected. They won’t have the impact of flowers arriving with no particular reason. This is the time you can really elicit an emotional response, especially if delivered to her work place in front of her co-workers.

Sending flowers to a woman is one of the few truly storied and romantic practices that still exists in our culture. It’s up there with buying a woman jewelry, or sweeping her away to a tropical paradise for the weekend. Sending flowers, you will notice, is the least expensive, yet most emotional of these practices.

By sending flowers to a woman, you will fulfill three key desires that most women have in a relationship; she is loved, she is beautiful, and the people around her think so too. While the last one may not seem as important, it is often felt by women to be the most important aspect of receiving flowers.

Can’t put your feelings into words? Use a Translator…your Professional Florist!!! They can translate your feelings into Flowers!

With valentines day fast approaching here is a useful guide to the top 10 romantic flowers and their meaning.

Some of us ladies are still thrilled when the florist van arrives at our door but before sending flowers find out what message you are sending.

Rather than just nipping in to the local petrol station or buying forced flowers from the supermarket, put a little effort in to selecting and sending flowers. However beware of what you are sending, red roses say I love you but yellow roses say we are just friends or denote jealousy. I have included which colour of flowers is the most appropriate for romance.

Most women are unaware of the meaning behind flowers so whether you send flowers yourself or through a florist make sure the card holds the information to the meaning of the flowers being sent.

Any good florist will know the meaning of the flowers, so if buying through a florist tell them the message you want to send and they will advise you on which flowers are appropriate.

10. Iris – Blue is faith and hope, purple means compliments or wisdom, white is purity and yellow is passion.

9. Acacia -Unspoken love, send these if you want to let someone know of your secret admiration.

8. Primrose – I can’t live without you (evening primose means happy in love).

7. Lilac – youthful or humility, also confidence.

6. Carnation -Fascination. Pink is maternal love, striped carnations mean refusal and say you cannot be with someone, yellow is rejection or disappointment but red means my heart aches for you or I am fascinated with you.

5. Rose – Red roses say I love you but if you place red and white roses together it symbolises perfect unity. A thornless rose means I loved you at first sight. Each colour of rose has a different meaning but for love red is the only colour to send.

4. Lily – White is purity or virginity, yellow means walking on air but also falsehood and orange means I burn for you.

3. Tulip – Red is a declaration of love, multi coloured means you have beautiful eyes and yellow is hopelessly in love.

2. Daisy – Innocence or a loyal love.

1. Orchid – Not as cliched as Roses. Rare beauty, refinement, beautiful woman, long life, femininity or mature charm

flower-essence

Bach flower remedies are becoming more and more popular in natural healing because of their profound yet exceptionally gentle healing effects. There are many books and websites describing the action of each flower essence, along with sources for buying essences already prepared. These sources are very valuable for both natural health professionals and the ‘home’ users. However, EVERY flower essence has some vibrational effect when properly prepared. If a flower really catches your eye, you may consider whether the flower speaks to you on another level – the vibration of that flower may have the potential to deeply affect your own healing process. Whether you can find information about that flower remedy’s healing effects shouldn’t stop you from giving it’s essence a try. Flower essences are simple to prepare, and you and your loved ones may really benefit from their use.

To make a flower essence, you’ll need the following equipment: A clear glass bowl; fresh spring water; sharp scissors; a journal or notebook and pens or pencils; a glass funnel; strainer or muslin/cheesecloth; tweezers; a glass bottle; a preservative – apple cider vinegar, vegetable glycerin, or brandy; a wildflower guide can be useful, along with a camera.

It is wonderful to also bring a gift to offer in gratitude to the plants that you intend to harvest. Some lovely gift suggestions might include Lobelia or other herbs including: Sage, Sweetgrass, or Cornmeal; a prayer; a song or poem; or a personal offering of your choice. This offering of the gift is an opportunity to cultivate a relationship with the flowers so as long as the offering is genuine and from your heart it will be blessed and well received.

After gathering your equipment, you’ll want to clearly identify the flowers that you would like to make into an essence. In order to make the highest vibration essence possible the following guidelines are helpful: the plants should be growing in a natural setting or cultivated organically; away from traffic; and should be growing abundantly.

Prior to harvesting it is wonderful to enjoy spending some time meditating with mediation with the plants. Getting clear and grounding yourself before making the essences is helpful in developing the relationship with the plants. Before you harvest it is proper to ask permission of the plants to harvest the flowers. When harvesting, please do not take the elder plants. These can be identified by noticing the largest and oldest flowers. After asking permission to harvest, wait for an ‘answer’ from the plants. Stay open to recognizing when your answer appears. After sitting with the plant in meditation and when you feel the timing is appropriate begin by making your offering. This is a precious opportunity to commune with the plant.

The process of making the flower essence blend is beautiful and sacred. Begin by preparing yourself through meditation or prayer. Open to the peaceful present moment in order to make a blend that is clear and full potency. It is not helpful to make the flowers when your thoughts or emotions are in turmoil or hectic. The best point in time to harvest the flowers is when the plant is at its peak power, which generally occurs sometime between 11:00 in the morning and 3:00 in the afternoon. It is a wonderful choice to use the pure flowing water that is found near the flowers that you intend a harvest.

The next step is to take your glass bowl and fill it with water. Using the new scissors cut the most auspicious of the plants blooms. Remember to never touch the flowers themselves. Allow the flower blooms to drop gently into the top of water. Cover the entire surface of the water in the glass with the flower blossoms. Then allow the flowers to sit in the water for several hours to allow the flowers to transfer their vibrational energy to the water. While waiting for the remedy to infuse the water it is wonderful to meditate or journal as well as to take pictures of the plants and vistas.

As you sit with the plant you may become dear friends. Allow your intution to open and learn everything from the flowers that they are willing to share. Enjoy this time to become fully acquainted with the plant. Learn about the plant by drawing or photographing it. You might enjoy noting any physical aspects of the plant that you suspect are related to its healing properties. Some ideas include noting the colors; textures; energies; aroma; shape; arrangement and number of petals.

After the water has been infused you will remove the flowers from the glass bowl with your tweezers. Release the flowers back to the earth and the surrounding environment. Then place the funnel in the large glass bottle. Pour the flower water through the strainer and into the bottle. If there is any remaining water you can either drink it or offer it back to the plants or both.

Once you arrive home you’ll want to label the ‘mother tincture’ with the name of the plant, the location, date, and any other pertinent information. The next step is to preserve your hand-made flower essence in an equal amount of brandy or other tincture preservative. The preserved flowers will last for two years if stored amber or cobalt blue glass bottles kept in a cool dry place. You may also want to place a crystal or other beautiful object near your flowers.

Instructions on making a flower essence dosage bottle: Fill a one ounce clean dark glass or cobalt blue glass dropper bottle with water. Add in seven drops of your ‘mother tincture’ flower essence to the bottle. Add a small amount of brandy or other preservative. Spiral the bottle in your hands while holding an intention of love and peace or other personal intention. Personal doses of four to six drops of this bottle can be taken as needed. Remember, more drops are not necessarily better – trust your instinct when deciding how many drops to take at one time.

In order to most effectively use your personal flower essence, you’ll want to Use your flowers on a regular basis. Remember that being consistent in using the flowers is the key to receiving the beautiful benefits. It is lovely to always set an intention or prayer before using your flowers.

The flowers can be taken in the mouth (neat); added to one’s drinking water; added to a bath; applied to the crown of the head of feet (this works great for children and animals); any variety of ways that feels appropriate to you.

It is safe to take flower essences when taking homeopathic or personal prescription medications. You can also use flowers when taking herbs or other nourishing foods. Flowers can also be used when fasting, when pregnant and with children and animals. The flowers will not conflict with other methods of healing. Flower essences are vibrational medicines that support healing from within and without. Trust the healing process. You are whole. You are divine.

silk wedding flowers

Wedding flowers are one of the essential parts of a wedding, and silk wedding flowers are a great way to make sure you have great flowers at your wedding without breaking your budget. Why would you buy silk wedding flowers instead of real ones?

Of course the head always says real flowers. It’s traditional, it’s real, real flowers are the only wedding flowers that will do it.  Silk wedding flowers are, well, artificial.

However when the head stops ruling and reality starts to be heard, there are some very good reasons to use silk wedding flowers.

Why would you choose to buy silk wedding flowers rather than traditional real flowers? Here’s 6 reasons why.

1. Lets get one thing straight. Silk wedding flowers look just as good as real flowers. There is an impression that silk flowers look a little tacky, just a little bit cheap and poor quality.

Nothing could be further from the truth. Modern silk flowers look exactly like the real thing. A viewer cannot tell the difference between silk flowers and real ones when looking at them unless they either feel them or subject them to serious scrutiny.

2. Unlike real flowers, silk wedding flowers don’t wilt. They don’t have petals falling off from time to time and they don’t sag.  Silk flowers look as good at the end of the wedding as they do at the start of the wedding. You can’t say that for real flowers.

3. And whilst real flowers are pretty much finished a few days after the wedding, a bride can keep her silk wedding flowers for years if she wishes to preserve the memory of her wedding day.

4. Real wedding flowers are very expensive. If you haven’t shopped for flowers yet just have a look at the price of real wedding flowers and you’ll be surprised at how expensive they can be. Silk flowers, on the other hand, can be extremely cost competitive. Particularly if you buy them in the right place.

Because unlike real wedding flowers you can buy silk wedding flowers online. Yes, you can ORDER real flowers online, but if they come from too far away they won’t be looking so great after delivery. With silk flowers, on the other hand, you can order online and get your silk flowers extremely cheaply, and they won’t come to you all damaged and wilting.

5. It’s possible to have the exact flowers you want, in the right colors, regardless of the season. With real flowers you’re a little dictated to by the season. If the flower you want isn’t in season, or the color isn’t in season, you’re stuck. But with silk flowers you’ve got a complete choice of flowers regardless of the season.

6. Silk flowers retain value. Now of course you may want to keep them as I’ve suggested, however many don’t. If you don’t want to keep your flowers you throw them out, if they’re real ones. They’ve usually had it. But silk flowers keep indefinitely, and can be resold.

Convinced? Silk wedding flowers are the way of the future.

Nothing is better than getting a bouquet of flowers but silk flowers are the next best thing and last forever! You can find silk flowers and arrangements that have been created with the most amazing style and detail. Silk flower arrangements are the perfect solution when you want to bring some color to the rooms in your house, or add a certain degree of sophistication.

After you have selected the perfect silk flower arrangements the next thing you will need to decide is where you would like to place them. Make sure that they colors of the arrangement go with the colors in the room they are placed. Make sure that the room has an adequate amount of light. The best type of light to show off your silk flower arrangements is natural light so use that to your advantage whenever you can.

Of course size has a lot to do with your silk flowers as well. The size of your room, size of the table that they are being placed, as well as the size of the flower arrangement themselves. Artificial flowers have a huge advantage over fresh flowers because you are able to get the largest variety regardless of what season it is.

Consider bright colors for the summer and autumn hues for the fall seasons. Many of today’s natural plants and flowers have a certain appearance during the different seasons. You are able to find silk flowers that look just like the real thing.

You will also need to find the right container or bowl for your silk flowers to be in. If you have a pre-made arrangement than they will generally come in their own container, but some don’t. Go with a bowl or container that blends with your arrangement and room alike.  Silk flowers are the perfect gift for anyone.

Silk Wedding Flowers

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