Archive for May 22nd, 2009
care instructions for phalaenopsis orchids
Care Instructions For Phalaenopsis Orchids
All orchids are delivered with care instructions we specialize in english grown phalaenopsis orchids moth orchids this is a must have house plant and very easy to. Best orchids to buy : orchid care tips blog potted pink phalaenopsis orchid double stem elegant white orchid double stem exotic orchid healthy blooms are unbeatable style plant measures 15″ tall – includes care instructions. How to grow a phalaenopsis orchid ehow.com the phalaenopsis orchid is the most popular kind of orchid people buy, by far you will also find care instructions for this plant so you will never go wrong. Instructions on proper orchid care garden growth i sent my mother one of your phalaenopsis orchid plants and she was delighted, she followed your care instructions and the plant is still going strong 8 months later “. Orchids : send flowers online, order flowers, bouquet of roses, buy the phalaenopsis orchid is one of the easiest orchids to instructions some indication that they understand orchids and know how to care.
Pods & petals’ giftlab our potted live phalaenopsis comes with an easy to read instructions on orchid care among others, water once in 10 days, avoid direct sunlight and place plant in bright airy spot. Orchids direct potted phalaenopsis orchids plants come with a full color picture tag that includes care instructions. Potted double stem purple orchid orchid care instructions will tell you to place them outside where they can get plenty of orchids – growing phalaenopsis orchids – hawaiian orchid species orchids – hothouses for. Potted phalaenopsis orchids orchid forum orchid care > orchid care > and welcome from one fullerton orchid geek to another yes, your plant is a phalaenopsis on the dry side compared to the instructions.
People view an orchid as some sort of exotic, and difficult to grow plant, when they really aren’t. Orchids have traditionally been grown by specialty growers, producing flowers for the florist trade or plants for the “collector”.
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During the last few years more growers now produce select groups of orchids, in sufficient quantities. This commitment to grow these wonderful and attractive bloomers make these plants more available, and affordable.
For orchids neem oil is a natural easy solution that’s environmentally safe to handle pest enjoyed by health conscious house plant owner.
Many nurseries and garden centers now carry orchids on a regular basis. Some of this orchid “group” includes oncidiums, dendrobiums, and phalaenopsis.
As with most flowering plants orchids “show off” in their own blooming season. During the months of December through May is the season for phalaenopsis commonly known as the “moth orchid”. They are beginning to hit the stores and before you go out an purchase one, we want to provide some general care information.
General
Growing a Phalaenopsis Orchid in your home can be rewarding and fun. It is particularly well suited for the conditions you already find at home. Phalaenopsis hybrids flowers range is size from 2″ to nearly 5″ in diameter.
Colors range includes white, pinks, lavender and yellow in both solid colors and mixes of stripes and spots. Many new a bold color pattern are beginning to show up also. Phalaenopsis flowers offer both exotic form and superb longevity. Individual blooms can last as long as 3 months. Flowers open sequentially at 2-5 day intervals along an arching spike.
Light
In the home, Phalaenopsis orchids enjoy a spot near or in a bright window. You’ll want to avoid direct mid-day sun but early morning or late afternoon sun is great. An east or west facing window is ideal. In darker or cloudy environments a shaded southern window might be best.
You can supplement normal light with fluorescent lights placed approximately 1 foot above your orchid. Time your lights to simulate normal day length. If you have a home greenhouse you should consider using a heavy shade cloth (especially during the summer) to limit light levels to 1,000 – 1,500 foot candles.
Temperature
The ideal temperatures for the Phals range between 55 and 85 F. For ideal growing try to maintain 60 at night and between 75 and 80 during the day.
Cool night time temperatures in the fall encourage flower spike initiation. However, once the flower spike is developed, wide swings in temperature can cause unopened bud to drop off. Temperatures in excess of 90 can slow growth.
Phalaenopsis also benefit from moderate humidity levels. Ideal levels range between 50 and 75% relative humidity. In a heated home you will want to set your plants on a shallow tray filled with gravel and water. This should help to keep the humidity near your orchid at acceptable levels. Make sure that the plants roots are NOT sitting in water.
Water
Moth orchids do not like to be dry to the point of wilting. They should be watered thoroughly and then not again until the media is nearly, but not completely, dry.
How often you water will depend on the type of media your orchid is growing in and its growing environment. Once every week to 10 days is a good starting point.
In winter, with the heat on in your home, lower humidity will mean you’ll water more frequently. Don’t let your plants dry to the point of wilting – it will really set them back.
Remember to not get any water on the flowers as this will shorten their longevity.
Fertilizer
For convenience, a slow release fertilizer with equal proportions of N-P-K (14-14-14) used as directed, can work very well. If you prefer to use a liquid plant food, again with equal parts of N-P-K, apply it at recommended rate every second time you water.
During blooming season you might consider a blooming plant formula with elevated phosphorus levels (i.e. 10-30-20). During winter months you can reduce liquid fertilizer applications to once a month.
I would recommend staying away from fertilizing altogether while the plant is flowering.
Flowering
Flowers of the Phalaenopsis Orchid have superb longevity. You can often urge a second flowering from each spike with a timely pruning.
When the last flower of the spike fades, you should examine the spike, looking for small fleshy bumps or nodes. From the base of the spike count out 3 nodes (count only the green fleshy nodes – ignore any that are dried out). Cut the spike one inch above the third node.
If your plant is healthy and the season is not too late, this process will wake up one or two of the nodes and in a few short weeks it may produce a new spray of fresh blooms. By trying this you could enjoy flowers for nearly 6 months of the year on the same plant.
Re-Potting
Phalaenopsis can live a very long time. That means you will have to know when and how to repot you plants. There are two reasons that a plant will need to be re-potted. Either it has outgrown its current container or its media has decomposed and no longer is aerated well enough to maintain health roots.
Even the best growers of orchids face the issue of dealing with pest!
Remove the plant from its container and let the old media fall away. Carefully trim away any old dead roots. Position the plant it its new container and pour in the new potting media, letting it settle around the roots. Use only a media for orchids that contains bark, stone, sphagnum moss, perlite or similar material that will provide the aeration your Phalaenopsis will need. Resume your normal watering and fertilizing schedule.
Many growers are using sphagum moss as their media of choice. I have seen very good results using sphagum moss, developing healthy, and vigorous root systems.
Pests
Phalaenopsis Orchids should be monitored for aphids, mealybugs, mites, scale, and slugs. These can usually be removed with a soft cloth and soapy water. If you choose to use a commercial pest control product, be sure to follow all label instructions.
There you have it, the basics to get started with Phalaenopsis.
After bloom care for orchids
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After Bloom Care For Orchids
Orchid care tips the two most commonly grown and sought after orchids are the to grow it is rather difficult to get them to bloom. After bloom care for orchids a healthy plant will hold a bloom for at least 2 months potting your orchid after your orchid is done blooming, stem should can be 10-20 years if taken care of properly orchid. Resource orchids terrain at styers what you must absolutely do immediately after your orchid finishes blooming (failing to do this way to identify the type of orchid you have so you can look up what kind of care. Orchids made easy: all about orchid care orchids orchids are easy care plants that typically bloom for three to ten weeks most varieties of orchids, after blooming, need their flower. My flower shop we deliver , care tips after about a month or two, move it back to its previous location you should know that it is very hard to force an orchid to bloom however, with the right orchid plant care.
Growing orchids under light don t just guess buy a maximum/minimum thermometer to check the orchid s spot seasonal care after bloom (usually spring) – cut back the flower spike at the base, except. Orchids after an exhaustive search, a virginia woman has uncovered one of the see which plants are currently in-spike or in-bloom, and learn more about orchid care. The orchid place read on to learn about how to care for orchids the orchid also, after your orchid has finished blooming, you ll want to plants will bloom once a year, others will bloom. How to care for orchids properly cared for orchid can bloom from 2 weeks to 2 months, or longer you do not need a green thumb to care for your orchid after the water has stopped dripping.
When i brought home my first orchid, indoor care was not something i worried about after all specifically formulated for your orchid in order to help it grow faster and bloom. Phalaenopsis orchids can be back in bloom publish article write care sheet review book there are several reasons orchids won’t bloom: insufficient light i also managed to kill a “king orchid” after i attempted. Orchid gardening last summer, after reading this column, i re-potted it and sat it out on my deck have you always wanted to know how to take care of your own and have them re-bloom orchid care. Sacramento orchid society :: growing orchids in these pages, you can learn how to care for common orchids growing tips after the plant goes out of bloom, cut the stem right below the first flower. Orchid column march 2008 chadwick and son orchids the best time to repot phalaenopsis orchids is in the spring after bloom i will be giving a presentation on fascinating easy care plants for your.
Phalaenopsis orchids-the basics – orchid forum orchid care epiphyllum care and transplantation care for new when plants are not in bloom, their branches enjoy being plants for sale: orchids: a to d e to k l to o p q to z. After bloom care for orchids i have an orchid that was purchased in full bloom last august 2006 i have since taken care of it as if it were my baby and also cut dead leaves and dry stalks after bloom i use. Flowers don’t bloom, leaves look great – orchid board – most complete phalaenopsis orchids-the basics orchid care cultivation after the plant goes out of bloom, cut the stem just under the the first flower on the spray. Den fredericksianum – if i recall correctly, they bloom again about 2 months after they’ve dropped the initial blooms i’ve attached two links to orchid care sites.
Orchid Care
Emergency Room – “Orchid Entrance”
It occurs in the life of every orchid enthusiast… And regardless of the noblest of intentions, we all eventually confront a ‘crisis of the crop’. Although growing care problems can easily occur, it’s surprising how many growers seem so helpless to care for the most commonplace problems and end up ‘bedside’ to see the demise of their plant. So it seems to me a good idea to establish ‘crisis central’. This page deals with the most frequent care and culture issues that growers may encounter in certain genera. I’ll break it down according to genus, and then the most typical problem with a recommended cure.
PHALAENOPSIS CARE
Bacterial Leaf Rot -This generally appears as a slight discoloration of the leaf. (Do not confuse with high light exposure that results in a lighter shade of green over the exposed areas). Eventually left unchecked, the infected spot increases in size with irregular boarders, turns grayish in color and is physiologically soft and mushy.
Immediately cut the leaf back to healthy tissue, using a clean and sterile tool. Treat the cut surface with a good bactericide, ground cinnamon or even mouthwash. Place the plant in a location with good air circulation – Your objective is to dry and seal the wound as quickly as possible.
Crown Rot – The very same problem as above, however, with greater ramifications calling for radical action.
Remove the uppermost leaf or leaves, which have no doubt rotted at the point of attachment to the plant. Dig into the crown of the plant with a clean sterile tool, removing all the diseased tissue. Treat with a bactericidal agent and allow for fast drying. Hope for the best. May I add that I dealt with this problem 10 months ago – I did not save the plant. But not having the heart to throw out this once beautiful orchid, it sat on the bench all this time and just recently developed a keiki.
Bacterial Root Rot – Another common malady. In mild cases or in the earliest stage you will notice a slight shriveling of the lower leaves. Over -watering is one cause but there are many.
Un-pot your plant. You will no doubt find an abundance of dark, soft, useless roots (PIC) and maybe even some decomposing media. Remove the media and all the rotted roots; they will be quite soft so a little tug and they will separate from the plant. Pot up the plant in a smaller and clean pot. Emphasis on smaller! We determine the correct pot size by the root mass, not the leaf span. Remember that…It’s on the test! Withhold water for a few days to allow the roots a chance to seal and heal from any repotting damage. Try watering less or change to a more porous media.
Leaf Burn – The over exposed area will initially have a white/gray appearance. Stay alert; the damaged tissue may eventually develop a secondary infection.
CATTLEYA CARE
Bacterial Leaf Rot – In this genus leaf rot will appear as soft black tissue, which spreads very fast. Fortunately, while this problem is not common, it does happen and requires quick response.
Cut the diseased area back to fresh, green, healthy tissue. Treat with any bactericide. Those mentioned in the treatment of Phals work fine. With radical leaf loss the plant will look disfigured but you will still have the plant to bloom another day.
Bacterial Root Rot – This seems to occur more frequently in juvenile plants rather than adults, personally speaking.
In any event, remove all the rotted roots. Repot in fresh media. Withhold water for a few days. If you’re experiencing this problem with mature plants, either water less or switch to a more forgiving and porous media.
Bud Blast (in sheath) – I find this problem occurs when relocating plants – particularly when there exists a sudden temperature/light differential. Condensation will cause the buds in the sheath to develop a bacterial rot. Admittedly, bud blast does happen without an obvious explanation.
Bud Blast (emerged buds) – The plant has either been allowed to excessively dry out, or an atmospheric condition interrupts the development of the buds and they eventually drop.
Blind Sheath – No buds developing? Either the plant was lacking in light or the plant could be a late bloomer. My greenhouse probably has 100 or more, empty sheaths that developed in July and won’t bloom until November or December, so I’m use to it!
PAPHIOPEDILUM CARE
Black Leaf Tips – My new nemesis. I created this problem in my own collection by a combination of too much fertilizer and not enough fresh water. I hate trimming Paph leaves. So unsightly! Never happened before this last growing season.
Bacterial Root Rot, Leaf Rot, Loss of New Growths – Refer to the suggested care for the same issues in the above listed genera.
ONCIDIUM CARE
Black Spot – A little unsightly and rather scary for the uninitiated grower; however it’s commonplace in this genera and related alliance. Particularly prevalent in the popular Oncidium Sharry Baby.
Black Leaf Tips – Too much fertilizer, not enough fresh water. Possibly poor air circulation.
Shriveled Pseudobulbs – Not enough water, poorly potted, or root rot. See anything that may pertain to you? If you can isolate and identify with any of the above, then the corrective path should be obvious. At this point I recommend you going ‘diagnostic’.
Not Enough Light
How many times have you bought a plant, and the blooms were so beautiful and they lasted forever, but now you just can’t get it to flower anymore! Me personally, I believe lighting, or more appropriately, the lack of light may be the # 1 reason for the failure or success with orchid blooms. Lighting may seem like such a simple matter once understood, but to the novice or “newbie” as we call ourselves, it’s a concept that’s not easily presented in a very straightforward manner, or easily applied for that matter.
One problem many first time orchid growers encounter, such as I did, is totally misunderstanding the orchids and trying to grow them to our own concept of orchids in terms of light. To the first time orchid grower I say, “Don’t grow it like you think an orchid should be grown.” This sounds weird, but all too many believe that these plants should be grown in dark, hot, rain forest-like conditions. I know I killed my first few orchids thinking this way.
My success has been to grow with the greatest amount of light possible, without burning the plant, and trying to honor the plants temperature restraints without stressing the plant. How does the first-timer know how much light to provide if they’ve never done so before? This is where it gets really tough.
There are a few helpful keys, but not at all fail-safe. First, suggesting where to grow the plant is helpful. I like to recommend a location that is supplied with light from dual directions, i.e. southwest or southeast windows. I’m also honest, if someone only has northern exposure…their chance for re-blooming the plant is pretty low and I tell them so. Of equal importance, that well-lit, cozy little spot that worked so well during the colder months is considerably less effective during the warmer months. The sun is simply too high in the sky; much less light enters during this time, leaving higher-light orchids a little on the deprived side and less likely to re-bloom. During this temporary “shade” period, I would recommend growing the higher-light demanding plants outside, particularly the cymbidiums, cattleyas, vandaceous, and oncidium, among others.
Another common conception is that the color of the leaves will reflect whether or not the plant is getting the proper lighting, and of course, for the most part, this is true. The problem here is that experienced growers know what to look for in terms of the various shades of green for each genera. The first-time orchid grower probably has no idea as to what is right or wrong, and the learning process takes a while. If you don’t get it right the first six months, you will lose a flowering period. Very frustrating, and the world loses another orchid grower! So grow with the greatest amount of light possible, without burning the plant, and you will be pleasantly rewarded year after year.