The Meanings of Flower

Archive for May 12th, 2009

Orchids belong to the most diverse family of plants known to man. There are over 880 genera, 28,000 species and well over 300,000 registered cultivars currently documented. These numbers only begin to tell the true story behind the evolutionary success of modern day orchids. Orchids are the most rapidly (genetically) changing group of plants on earth and more new species have been discovered over the last few thousand years than any other plant group known.

Orchids are also one of the most adaptable plant groups on earth. Some Australian orchids grow entirely underground, and many tropical jungle orchids grow in the upper branches of trees. Tundra, rainforest, mountain, grassy plain, desert and swamp environments contain numerous orchid species.

Orchids produce seed pods with literally hundreds of thousands of seed that are released and scattered by the wind. Orchid seeds must establish a symbiotic relationship with a special fungus to survive its first year of life. The fungi gathers water and minerals for itself and the seedling, and the seedling shares its sugars from photosynthesis with the fungus. Only one or two orchid seeds will ever germinate and survive on that perfect crevice or depression that is both moist and has the fungus present. Even then, its chances to survive in the wild long enough to bloom are slim.

To avoid this problem, greenhouse growers sow orchid seeds on moist, sugar-rich, sterile agar, or they cut out growing clumps of orchid cells and place them on the agar. These techniques allow many hundreds of orchid plants to survive to maturity. New and improved hybrids can be mass produced rapidly. This is important as orchids are very slow growing. Many orchids take five to seven years to mature to flowering. You can see why breeding three or four orchid generations could span a person’s lifetime just to get one new hybrid propagated sufficiently for sale.

Classification

All orchids belong to the Orchid Family, Orchidaceae (or-Kid-ACE-ee-ee). Orchids are divided into two basic growth types: monopodial and sympodial. Monopodial orchids have a central stem which grows continuously from the tip. Flowers are produced from the stem between the leaves, usually alternately from side to side. Phalaenopsis orchids are a good example. Sympodial orchids, such as cattleyas, laelias and paphiopedilums, possess a rhizome which sends out a shoot. This develops into a stem and leaves and eventually produces flowers. In time, from the base of this growth, a new shoot develops and so on in a continuous cycle. The buds are often, though not always, protected by a sheath.

The mid section of stems of sympodial orchids are often expanded into water-storage organs called pseudobulbs. These vary greatly in size and shape, ranging from tall and pencil-thin to bulbous and onion-like. The leaves vary too, some being soft and folded like a fan, others thick and leathery. The roots of epiphytic orchids have an outer layer or corky cells called velamen, which protects the thin, living cortex within. These adaptations allow orchids to absorb water and nutrients rapidly from raindrops, but protect roots, stems and leaves from water loss during dry periods. Most orchids are adapted to conserve water and should be cared for as such.

Orchid Cultural Requirements

Growing Medium

There are many different types of orchid potting medium used in orchid culture. The overall consideration is to provide structural support for the orchid roots, but also to provide lots of air spaces between medium particles. Many orchid plants are grown in osmunda fiber. This fiber comes from the roots of the Osmunda fern that is native to Australia and the Pacific. The tough, wiry fibers break down very slowly and is an ideal potting medium. Fresh pine bark is also a popular medium but is usually mixed with other amendments before use. Both materials are sometimes mixed with peat and perlite or vermiculite. Some orchids are even grown in pebbles mixed with bark. Most orchid roots are adapted to being exposed to air and harsh conditions, but cannot tolerate being wet for more than a day or two.

Orchids grow slowly compared to houseplants. However, most orchids need to be repotted about once every two years. To pot an orchid, the pot is filled about two-thirds with orchid potting medium, then the plant is set in the pot with its roots spread out. The growing tip either centered (monopodials) or placed two fingers from the pot rim (sympodial). Then additional media is packed tightly around the plant to hold it in place. You should be able to turn the pot upside down without the orchid or medium falling out. Practice will insure successful repotting. When the plant outgrows the pot by extending the new shoots over the edge, usually about every two years, it is time to repot.

Light

The ideal place in the home for growing orchids is a bright window, free from drafts, where your plants receive indirect sunlight both morning and afternoon. (A south window is best.) In winter, give orchids all the light possible. Light intensity should be between 1500 and 2000 foot candles the equivalent to a bright south-facing window. With extra large windows or especially intense sunlight, the light may be adjusted downward by moving plants 18 to 36 inches from the window. Plants in the home require a greater light intensity because they receive light from only one direction, while in a greenhouse they receive light from many sides.

Many orchids can be grown in a greenhouse or outdoors. All will require partial shade. Therefore, it is best to shade the section of the greenhouse you intend using or else grow them in an area that you have already shaded for foliage plants or African violets. Dendrobium Oncidium and Vanda will grow best in 20-30% of normal outdoor light, whereas Phalaenopsis-type orchids require only 10- 15 % of normal light.

Artificial Light

If you have neither a greenhouse nor the proper windowsill conditions, fluorescent lighting provides good results. You can grow and flower many types of orchids in the darkest basement or shadiest apartment with the addition of just one shop light. Most orchid hobbyists find having at least four 36″ or 48″ fluorescent tubes provides excellent light levels. Each group of orchids (primarily those with low to medium light requirements) will need a minimum of two forty-watt fluorescent light tubes hung six inches above the plants.

Keep lights on for a minimum of 12 hours per day in order to provide the minimal amount of light necessary for proper growth and flowering. If you are able to place your fluorescent light setup near a sunny window, your orchid flowering chances will increase. The best type of fluorescent tubes seem to be those designed specifically for plants.

Humidity

Potted orchid plants may be set on decorative pebbles in a water-filled tray, saucer, or other container. Evaporation of water from pebbles provides humidity. Pebbles also make the growing area more attractive, while assuring good drainage. Mist your plants with distilled water because tap water can lead to salt deposits on the leaves. A plant which is kept soaking wet invites attack by bacteria and fungal diseases. If you are able to enclose an area like a greenhouse, you will find it easier to maintain a proper humidity.

Temperature

Orchids are not as delicate and temperature sensitive plants as most people think. Most will adapt readily to conditions offered by any home or greenhouse. For growing purposes, we group orchids into three temperature classes:

The medium temperature class is represented by many Cattleyas, Epidendrums, Oncidiums, and Laelias, and most other commercially available orchids. The ideal minimum temperature is 60 degrees F nights and high 70s during the days. An occasional deviation will have no harmful effect. This group will do very well with the air, temperature, and light facilities found in the average home.

The cool class includes Cymbidiums, Cypripediums, Odontoglossums and Miltonias, and should be grown 5 degrees to 10 degrees F cooler than the medium class. These plants also require high light, so imagine cool, sunny October mornings as an example of the light and temperature that this class needs.

Warm class orchids are represented by Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilums, Vandas, Rhynchostylus and Dendrohiums. These plants should be grown 5 degrees F warmer than those in the Medium Class. They do well in high humidity and can be grown outdoors in Georgia from late spring to early fall if shaded and protected from rain. Never expose orchids of this class to less than 45 degrees F.

During cold, freezing night temperatures, all orchid plants should be moved away from the window to provide a protective airspace against freezing. Air temperature can be 15 to 20 degrees F cooler near the windows than the room temperature.

Watering

Watering is the most important factor in orchid culture. A good rule of thumb is to water whenever the medium (osmunda fiber or bark mix) is dry. If you grow the plants in pots suspended in the air, they will dry out more rapidly than bench grown plants and will need watering more frequently. Orchids potted in bark require more frequent waterings than those in most other potting media, just as plants in clay pots require more frequent watering than those in plastic pots. Orchids may be grouped into three categories according to their moisture requirements.

Low Water Use. Cattleyas, Laeliocattleyas, Brassolaeliocattleyas, Oncidiums, Miltonias, and Odontoglossums are ephiphytes or “air rooted” orchids, with built-in “water tanks” or pseudobulbs. They should be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings so air can circulate between the epiphytic roots. Water every five days or so. In the heat of mid-summer, water may be needed every three or four days. During the short, cool days of winter, increase the time between waterings to 10 to 14 days. If you do err in watering, make sure it is on the dry side.

Moderate Water Use. Phalaenopsis, while also epiphytic are monopodial and do not have built-in tanks for water storage, but store some water in their leaves. They require watering similiar to ordinary house plants, but more frequent waterings than orchids with pseudobulbs. Water enough to keep the potting medium from becoming dry for more than a day or two.

High Water Use. Paphiopedilums and Haemeria orchids are semi-terrestrials or terrestrials (meaning “earth-rooted”). Unlike the preceding groups, they do not mind “wet feet.” They like an abundance of moisture and the soil can remain damp for many days without any negative effects. Many terrestrial orchids are potted in peat based media which will naturally hold more water than the bark mixes.

Outdoor Conditions. Cymhidiums and many other orchids, such as cattleyas, can be grown outdoors during frost-free months in Georgia. They also like an abundance of moisture – but with good drainage and plentiful root aeration. However, do not plant tropical /greenhouse orchids outdoors in your garden soil. The soils are too dense to allow the roots to survive.

Fertilization

For best results, fertilize orchids with soluble plant food. When fertilizing plants growing in osmunda, bark or peat/bark mixes, use a complete liquid fertilizer with a 20-20-20 analysis, or a 30-10-10 orchid-special fertilizer. Don’t fertilize more than once a month. Apply the fertilizer in place of a normal water application. It is always best to use fertilizer at 1/2 the recommended rate. Orchids are adapted to environments where nutritional levels of the soil or bark are very low. More orchids are killed because of over-fertilization and over-watering than by any other cause.

Ventilation

In greenhouses, a small fan should be run continuously to circulate the air. A window left ajar in all but the coldest of weather may also be adequate to provide proper ventilation indoors. Airconditioning may harm orchids because the air is much too cold coming out of the unit. Keep orchid plants out of cold drafts and away from heating vents.

Orchid Pests and Diseases

Orchids have few insect pests or diseases if properly cared for. It is important to have a problem identified before attempting control. Take a sample to your county Extension agent and follow recommended treatments suggested. Many disease prevention tips are provided in an orchid disease guide published by the American Orchid Society. Wiping leaves with a warm, soapy, wet cloth is sufficient to eradicate insects like mealy bugs if you have but a few plants in the house. Be careful because many insecticides can damage your orchids. Read the label to see if the pesticide can be safely used on orchids specifically. If you have questions, ask your county Extension agent.

Orchids for Hobby Growers

One of the most frequently asked Questions from the hobby grower is, “What type or variety of orchid should I grow?” Usually when you mention the word “orchid” most people immediately think of the purple-flowered Cattleyas, and rightly so as they have long been the most popular in the trade. However, the genus Cattleya contains a mere 50 species of the 28,000 known. Many, many other orchids do wonderfully in the home.

Hobby growers should try growing hybrids of Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, Dendrobium, Oncidium, Vanda and Epidendrum. Phalaenopsis orchids are excellent for beginners. They may produce up to 15 or more flowers per spike. The flowers measure up to four inches across. Flowers may remain open for six weeks or longer. Frequently when a spike is cut, a secondary spike will develop on the old stalk below the original flower head, thus extending the blooming season. Phalaenopsis plants are very easy to grow.

Dendrobium hybrids are some of the better corsage type orchids. Lavender or white flowers are borne in profusion on a well-grown plant and are long lasting. They are a prolific group in that offset plantlets are frequently produced on the cane. When each offiet has produced several aerial roots, it can be cut from the parent plant and will frequently flower after one year of growth.

Oncidiums, commonly, referred to as dancing girls, are also easy to grow. These dainty yellow and brown or white and brown flowers are suitable if used alone or in combination with other orchids. Large flowered Oncidium sdhacelatum – with their yellow and brown color combination can be made into a corsage. These hardy plants flower well even under adverse growing conditions.

Vandas are becoming popular among orchid growers. The wide range of colors which includes some fairly good blues and browns and long lived flowers has added greatly to their popularity. Vandas may grow to be very large plants, sometimes 10 to 12 feet high, but they grow very slowly. A plant two feet tall may be seven or eight years old. Vandas are often grown outdoors in hanging baskets during the summer months.

A tough group of orchids is the Epidendrums. Epidendrum hybrids are becoming popular plants.

These are undoubtedly one of the easiest orchids to grow and one of the most prolific groups. The tall, thin, reed-like growths constantly put forth new plantlets. It is relatively simple to take tip cuttings having a few aerial roots. Although the flowers are small, about one inch in size, they are produced in great profusion.

Paphiopedilums are one of the best orchid groups to grow under artificial lighting. There are many spectacular hybrids available, and quite a number of species. They are not fragrant, but have very interesting and colorful “lady slipper” shaped flowers. Due to import regulations and conservation considerations, we recommend you grow only orchid hybrids so as not to promote the collecting of species from the wild.

For more information on orchid plant care and disease control, contact the American Orchid Society, Membership Services Department, 6000 South Olive Ave, West Palm Beach, Fl. 33405-9974.

Edible Flowers

Many people call my office and ask about what flowers are edible if you have never heard of such a thing, well, yes it certainly is possible.  Edible flowers – growing flowers that are beautiful, as well as edible and non-edible flowers it s a popular trend these days to add some colourful petals to a salad or simply place a flower or two on a dish as a decoration.  Edible flowers edible flowers aren’t a new phenomenon, but garnishes of fresh flowers tend to intimidate diners no one is really sure if the flowers are there for decoration or to be eaten.  Edible flowers poisonious flowers and asian herbs recipes from asia educational programs of the kentucky cooperative extension service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.  Edible flowers cheap flowers fast company sky-bolt enterprises this article by ginny stibolt is from the series, adventures of a transplanted gardener www.transplantedgardener.com.

Edible flowers edible mother’s day gifts, edible flowers mother’s day is coming up in a few months, and you’re off to get your mother another memorable gift for this year well, there is the. Edible flowers fireworks splice html edible flower is an organic farm located in the portland oregon area we seasonally grow a variety of organic produce.  Edible flowers an overview of edible flowers – teleflora.com edible flowers can be a boon for innovative cooks flowers delight our senses in so many ways sight, smell, touch it s not surprising that some flowers can be treats for our. Sky-bolt enterprises article: edible flowers decorate with fresh edible flowers on desserts or in salads ask your florist for some that haven’t been sprayed with pesticides (or gather some from your yard).

With their natural beauty and unique flavours, edible flowers are an elegant addition to any celebration.  Using them in your daily meals adds nutritious appeal to even the simplest menu.  Incorporating edible flowers into your recipes is an easy and exquisite way to ensure the dishes you serve are enjoyed and admired by all.

edible flowers

Before you begin to experiment with edible flowers, please take note of the following:

• Start slowly when you begin incorporating edible flowers into your diet to avoid possible allergic reactions.
• You should exercise the same care you take in choosing the vegetables you eat when choosing edible flowers.  If you do not grow your own flowers, look for organically grown varieties at your florist or local market.
• DO NOT consume flowers bought from retail outlets unless you are certain they have been grown without chemicals.  Your best bet is to grow them yourself.
• Eat only those parts of the flower or plant that you have confirmed to be safe for human consumption.
• Know what you are eating and if you are unsure of the toxicity of a flower or plant ask a qualified professional before you consume it.

Once you have taken the proper precautions, you are ready to begin enjoy the unique flavours of edible flowers.

Did You Know…

…the pollen contained in many flowers is rich in vitamins and minerals?
…roses and rosehips are loaded with vitamin C?
…dandelion blossoms are high in vitamin A and C?
…dandelion leaves are high in iron, calcium, phosphorous and vitamins A and C?
…marigolds and nasturtium contain vitamin C?
…most blossoms are very low in calories?
…artichokes and broccoli are actually flower buds?

Menu Ideas

• When making ice cubes, drop a few edible flowers in each tray compartment then freeze.  “Flower cubes” make an elegant addition to punch bowls, cocktails or other cold beverages.
• Alternate layers of rose or geranium petals or lemon balm with layers of regular sugar in small jars, seal and allow two weeks for the scent to permeate the sugar.  These colourful, aromatic sugars can be used on the table or in cooking to add a delicate taste to foods and beverages.
• You can also use scented geranium petals to scent jelly, ice creams and cakes.
• Day lily buds can be frozen for later use in Oriental soups or stirfries.
• Spicy nasturtium flowers and leaves add flavour and vibrant colour to salads.
• Pansies can be candied, used as a garnish or tossed into salads for colour.
• Sweet-smelling rose petals add a delicate flavour to sweets.  Remember to remove the bitter white base of the petal before eating!
• Chrysanthemum petal tips complement ginger in meat dishes.
• Dianthus’ clove-like flavour makes a pleasant addition to salads and seafood.
• Try using homegrown hibiscus to make a delicious, fragrant tea.

Easy Edible Candied Pansies
Candied flowers are an easy and elegant garnish to make.  They are especially exquisite when used for wedding cake decorations.  Pansy blossoms are ideal for this project because their simple shape and strong structure holds up well under the sugar’s weight.

1. 1. Rinse and thoroughly dry pesticide-free pansies.
   2. Using a small paintbrush, thinly coat the petals with lightly beaten egg whites.
   3. Set pansies on a plate covered with superfine sugar.
   4. Sprinkle the blossoms with more superfine sugar. Gently shake to remove the excess.
   5. Place on waxed paper and allow to dry for several hours.

Some Common Edibles
The following is a brief list and description of some popular edible flowers and plants. Explore books and the Internet or talk to your florist or produce manager for more recipe ideas and edible varieties!

Apple Blosom, Malus spp. – pale pink blossom has a delicate floral flavour.

Carnation, Dianthus spp. – pink, red, mauve flowers add a spicy, clove-like flavour

Day Lily, Hemerocallis spp. – yellow, orange, red buds have a sweet taste and crunchy texture.

Lilac, Syringa vulgaris – lavender blossoms have a pungent floral and lemony flavour.

Pansy, Viola X Wittrockiana – purple, white, yellow and multi-coloured blooms have a sweet to tart flavour.

Violet, Viola odorata – white and purple blossoms have a sweet, nectar-like taste.

Additional Edible Flowers

African Violet
Aster
Bee Balm, Bergamot
Begonia
Chives
Christmas Cactus
Chrysanthemum petal tips
Citrus (orange, lemon, lime) blossoms
Dandelion
Day Lily
Sweet William or Pinks
Fruit blossoms (apple, peach, pear, apricot)
Fuschia
Gardenia
Ginger
Gladiolus blossoms
Hibiscus blossoms
Hollyhock blossoms
Iceland poppy
Lavender flowers
Lilac
Passion flower
Peony
Rose Petals
Safflower
Squash, Zucchini & Pumpkin flowers
Strawberry
Yucca (petals only), Spanish bayonet

Non-Toxic House Plants

Boston fern
Peperomia
Jade Plant
Lipstick Plant
Rubber Plant
Sanseveria
Umbrella Plant
Wandering Jew
Weeping Fig

Suggestions for Using Edible Flowers

• Do not consume flowers bought from retail outlets unless you can confirm they have been grown without chemicals.
• Grow them yourself or buy from a certified organic grower.
• Start with small quantities to avoid possible allergic reaction.
• Although flowers may be edible, they may not be palatable.
• Eat only the parts known to be safe.  The other parts of several plants are poisonous.
• Wash as thoroughly as possible.
• Do not eat flowers picked from roadsides due to poisonous car exhaust emissions.
• Flowers grown by most florists, greenhouses and nurseries have been treated with fertilizers and pesticides and should not be consumed.
• Do not eat any flower you do not know for sure is edible. Consult a specialist.
• Remove pistils and stamens – eat only petals in most cases.

flower-varities

The first time we cured our home, and encountered the directive to “buy flowers,” we procrastinated: we were between jobs; we needed the money for other things; we were never home enough to enjoy them. But, one week, we added a bouquet to our groceries and saw how it made a difference in how we perceived our home. Now we’re addicted; we watch for new flowers along with the changing seasons. Available everywhere from supermarkets to high end florists, here’s a rundown of some of our favorites and how to care for them…

Sometimes sitting on the porch, summer breeze wafting through, lazy sunshine bringing blessed sleep, the scent of perfume finds me. And often times with eyes still shut, I play a game of guessing–whose fragrance might this be? The lacecap, the rose, the summer magnolia? Sometimes I guess correctly, sometimes I don’t, sometimes I just drift back to sleep.

The warmest days of the year are here, bringing a wealth of blooms. As gardeners, we capitalize on this weather, growing vegetables, cut flowers, roses, perennial beds, blooming trees and shrubs. It’s also the time of the year when we appreciate a day without chores. And there are certain annuals, perennials, shrubs and trees that seem to complement our lazy days. This is, of course, the summer garden.

Here are some old-time favorites that truly represent the warmest days of the year. Take a look–you may find several you grew up with. And if you’re not growing these summer favorites today, why wait? The time to enjoy the summer is now!

* ANNUALS

Impatiens and cleomes are two longtime favorites of the summer garden. Both are easy to grow and found as transplants or seeds in nearby garden centers. Impatiens have the reputation of being America’s #1 choice for shady to semi-shady sites. And with little wonder–transplants are available in color choices from white to pink, red to purple and shades of orange.

Cleomes, known as old-fashioned spiderflower, are elegant country plants that can be directly sowed into the ground in the spring. Reaching between three to four feet, the foliage is deeply veined beneath enormous sprays of airy blossoms, available in pink, white and violet. Cleomes love the sun and look spectacular within the summer border.

Zinnias have always been a hot weather flower, but recent additions, such as `Zinnia Profusion,’ are making it one of the best choices to directly start from seed. Look for `Cherry’ or `Orange Profusion,’ winners of the 1999 All-American Selections Gold Medal Flower Awards. These small, bushy plants literally bloom nonstop with an extraordinary abundance of petite flowers. Great for the borders of your beds or within potted arrangements, this summertime annual takes heat, sun and humidity.

Lately I’ve noticed a generous selection of coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides) available in garden centers and being incorporated into public garden desigus. And why not? These annuals are beautiful foliage plants becoming fashionable again. Use in shaded to semi-shaded sites and in well-watered sunlit areas. The foliage ranges from unusual variegation to intense red to a favorite chartreuse-green that can liven up and complement so many garden settings.

* PERENNIALS

There’s a legion of favorites here, but limited space permits me to name only a few. I will start with a darling that simply must be included–the lily. From Asiatic to Oriental lilies, from the tiger to the Easter lily, these stately, often perfumed flowers look best planted in abundance and mingled into the garden beds. I always buy the bulbs in bulk and immediately set into the ground during the spring or fall. Choose both early to late blooming varieties, and come summer, these old-timers will bring a lasting elegance to the garden.

Three long-blooming summer perennials–the shasta daisy, purple coneflower and yarrow–are reliable favorites that bring country charm to any setting. Mixed into beds that flow around the borders of the yard, the flat-topped flowers of each species attract butterflies and birds.

The perennial Dianthus (also sold in annual and biennial species) includes a wide army of easily-found choices. Ideal for borders and sunny gardens, these petite flowers ring in the early summer and last until frost. In my own gardens the rosy, spice-scented blooms are planted nearly everywhere, and I was particularly delighted the second year when its blooms presented a rainbow of color tumbling through the large rock garden.

And don’t forget to add Liatris, though it’s not often found in modern gardens–which is reason to include it. The stalks and flowers are strictly upright, which brings diversity among all the floppy summer flowers. The blooms of Liatris, either an intense purple-pink or glowing white, first open from the top and work their way down for long-lasting interest.

SHRUBS AND TREES

Nothing advertises summer like flowering shrubs and trees. My personal favorites are the many varied hydrangeas, and, of course, the silk tree (Albizia Julibrissin). Hydrangeas are attractive shrubs, with an expanse of foliage. Given good, well-drained soil and regular watering, hydrangeas grow rapidly and can be exposed to sun or shade, depending on the heat index of your zone. The flowers are often big, showy and perfectly summertime. H. macrophylla, maybe the most well-known variety, can sport green or variegated foliage with white, blush, cherry, blue or purple flowers. Nearly all of us can remember a conversation in which these flowering shrubs’ color is determined by the chemistry of the soil–acid soil produces the blues, while neutral to alkaline brings the pinks.

Two other worthy hydrangeas, H. paniculata `PeeGee’ and H. quercifolia `Oakleaf’ belong in the summer garden. The `PeeGee’ overflows with flower clusters, opening in a lime-white, aging to pinkish-purple and finally taming bronze by late summer. The `Oakleaf’ hydrangea is simply elegant in shady sites with its elongated pinnacles of white flowers set against deeply-lobed foliage resembling the oaks.

The silk tree, also called Mimosa, loves the summer heat. In my landscape there’s not one, but four silk trees. Affectionately dubbed the “umbrella tree,” the limbs fan out like huge feathers on a hot day. Walk beneath its graceful, airy limbs and fluffy pink flowers, and you’ll probably agree the temps sway a bit to the cooler side. Very easy to grow (water it well in the hottest weather and watch it go), the silk tree ultimately reaches a height of about 40 feet and can be sized into a variety of landscape plans.

The common butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) is a summer treat. A sunny day often finds me on the front screen porch overlooking the cottage garden watching throngs of butterflies, moths. bees and the occasional hummingbird sipping nectar from the bright purple flower of these upright, arching shrubs. Towards evening, I’ll catch a visiting bird hopping among the inner branches slip towards the birdbaths below. Look for named butterfly bushes, such as `Royal Red,’ `Black Knight’ and `Nanho Purple.’

The southern magnolia, with its intoxicating perfume and stately blossoms, is a staple of the summer landscape. Seedlings, however, can take up to ten years to mature and bloom. Opt for newer varieties that offer smaller size, faster growth and flowering within four years. Some favorites include `Edith Bogue,’ which is extremely hardy; `Majestic Beauty,’ with especially large leaves; and `Little Gem,’ which can be trained to a shrub or small tree.

* VINES

I would be amiss if I failed to include a category for these warm weather lovers. Tumbling vines romance the summer garden and make it a playful ground. While perennial vines return for yet another year, annual vines often win us over with lush, late summer blooms.

Of the perennial vines, one of the prettiest in my gardens is the silver lace vine (Polygonum aubertii), known in olden days as the mile-a-day vine. That’s because once established this perennial vine literally sprints off. Its foliage is divine–tiny spirals of pearly blossoms with a heavenly scent. And don’t omit a perennial choice from the clematis variety. I particular like `Jackamanni,’ often seen trailing up mail-boxes nearly all summer with its rich purple blooms.

When it comes to annual vines, there is one sure favorite that I reseed every year. The hyacinth bean vine (Dolichos) is a true wonder. The seeds are large and can be pushed directly into the soil. Expect the hottest days to send this vine upward, but watch out–it loves to literally cover a trellis, a fence or an arbor! When the jewel pea-blossoms of lilac and purple arrive to change over to royal pods, you’ll particularly enjoy the ongoing combination of its purple-vein foliage, flowers and seedpods.